Could oil pump be failing??

killaberna

New Member
typically its just the pressure switch failing on the back of the block, i had two cars that did exactly the same thing, 5w30, 5w40, 10w30 or 10w40 will all be fine for your engine, just stay away from the 50 weights.
okay i should be good then thanks.. like i said earlier i switched my oem one back on so hopefully that solves the problem...also how tight is the pressure switch suppose to be. i just snugged it really good with a socket, does it need to be super tight.
 

Merlins Beard

*Beard not included
A hole in your header would not have any effect on your oil pressure. It sounds like you solved the problem with the wire short though
 

Spawne32

Shut up baby, I know it!
okay i should be good then thanks.. like i said earlier i switched my oem one back on so hopefully that solves the problem...also how tight is the pressure switch suppose to be. i just snugged it really good with a socket, does it need to be super tight.
im sure theres a torque spec for it but snug is fine for that, you dont want to break the sensor
 

SexySSBP

Kwicherbichen
20-50 is actually the best oil you can use if you plan on running your car hard.

Read this.
http://store.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/graphics/subaru_oil/Forced Performance Recommendations for Motor Oil.pdf
Tyler, I'm not sure if you are just messin or not, but that article is specific to race engines. Or at least performance built engines. In which case the bearing clearances would be set to run thicker oil. 10w30 is the thickest I would personally run in my car.
 


killaberna

New Member
A hole in your header would not have any effect on your oil pressure. It sounds like you solved the problem with the wire short though
yea that was the reason why i switched to an aftermarket one because i thought my oem one was dead but it turned out to be a short and that was like three to four months ago. This just started so today i switched the oem one back on and it hasnt happend all day..

thanks for all the advice guys. You guys are always a big help.
 

killaberna

New Member
im sure theres a torque spec for it but snug is fine for that, you dont want to break the sensor
okay good cause i felt like it was going to break if i gave it another spin..lol..im prone to breaking things. specifically for over tightening things.
 

Spawne32

Shut up baby, I know it!
okay good cause i felt like it was going to break if i gave it another spin..lol..im prone to breaking things. specifically for over tightening things.
i have that habit as well, torque wrench is a wise investment ;)
 


killaberna

New Member
i have that habit as well, torque wrench is a wise investment ;)
so i went out and bought a torque wrench.. a craftsman electronic torque wrench with 3/8 end to it. I have a question for you do these need to be re-calibrated if so when? are they good, do they last?
 

Spawne32

Shut up baby, I know it!
so i went out and bought a torque wrench.. a craftsman electronic torque wrench with 3/8 end to it. I have a question for you do these need to be re-calibrated if so when? are they good, do they last?
depends on how much you use them, typically 5-10 years for recalibration as parts wear inside the wrench, its important that you dial it back down to zero before you put it back away in your tool box so that you remove the preload from the spring inside
 

bmx198706

New Member
i'm experiencing the same issue also. i was trying to figure out hesitation issue and changed out that swtich. exactly when i changed it out my oil light does the same exact thing. was thinking i may have gotten a bad swtich. so i replaced it with another one, but sadly still the same issue. i hooked up a oil pressure gauge reader (mechanical) and im reading 5 lbs of pressure. and i believe its suppose to be 10. hopefully my block is not all screwed up because of this. i just rebuilt the motor with all new gaskets and rings
 
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