Mirrorimg's build thread

mirrorimg

Well-Known Member
While the dash is out I decided to put some of my leftover dynamat onto my firewall. I took the dash pad off to install it on the metal, then reinstalled the dash pad.



 

Samurai_Blue

Yolo Whippin'
Ive already purchased the replacement mount, but I will save my old one in case I do that down the road. I didnt know that there were other bushings that werent designed the same as the torque mounts (fill in the voids rather than replacing the mount entirely.)
Yeah i wouldnt have known unless i saw them at my friends house, I have them in my car and they feel alot stiffer than the HASPORT basic mounts i was going to buy. You can always get them and add them in if you want a stiffer mount, they are around $16 each if you get it from Mitch (thenexus or whatever)
 

mirrorimg

Well-Known Member
Yeah i wouldnt have known unless i saw them at my friends house, I have them in my car and they feel alot stiffer than the HASPORT basic mounts i was going to buy. You can always get them and add them in if you want a stiffer mount, they are around $16 each if you get it from Mitch (thenexus or whatever)
Thanks, Ill keep it in mind. If I were to do the driver side mount, I would most definitely need to do the opposing mount as well.
 

Samurai_Blue

Yolo Whippin'
the tranny is slip in the driver side may benefit from the old ripped mount you have i think you have to cut some of the old mount out
 


mirrorimg

Well-Known Member
Hell yea!

The dash has been reinstalled with the new heater core, all of the bits and peices have been put back in as well. I forgot to get some new heater hose because I had to cut the old ones away from the busted heater core. I ended up going to the local autozone but they didnt have 5/8" hose so I got some 3/4". Too bad this was just too big and it had a pretty bad leak on the right barb of the heater core.

I looped the lines and bypassed the core to get me over to advance auto, where I knew they would have 5/8" hose. That fixed the leak and she is running now.

There are a couple more things I need to do to the car, but I may wait on those while I fix the truck. I plan on rechecking the valve lash again and loosening it up a tad, blocking off the FITV, and adjusting the IACV because my idle is rather high with the idle screw turned in all the way. Ill take pictures of the truck when I drop the transmission pan to get to the kickdown cable and free it.
 

nathan_carmona

Gold Member
I wish I could do work on my car that seriously. it takes me forever to even get around to doing stuff like ding repair or vaccuming it lol the only thing I ever do in a timely manner is fluid changes
 


mirrorimg

Well-Known Member
hah, I certainly would not mind never having another problem with this car again. It takes a lot out of you knowing that your daily is also your project car. I really wanted to buy a welder this week and get my additional resonator welded in as well as putting flanges on a new catalytic converted, but the money wasnt there for it. It will have to wait a couple more paychecks as they will be coming monthly rather than biweekly now. The FITV block off will be cheap though, already have some metal in the garage that will suffice :)
 

mirrorimg

Well-Known Member
Nothing much has happened. I cleaned the car up today and figured I would share a picture. I noticed the other day that one of my coilovers is set a little differently than another, so I may do some measuring and see if my height is a little off from corner to corner.



I had my dad's 94 toyota pickup for a little while and it was having shifting problems. I decided to look into it and it was the kickdown cable (a throttle cable that extends into the transmission pan to the valve body). It was sticking and wouldnt release, so the truck wouldnt come out of 2nd gear.

Ive never seen a valve body inside before, and it was quite confusing. Took me a while to find what I needed for the truck and now it runs like butter.
 

speedin

The Transporter
Everytime I see a valve body I think of those handheld maze games where you have to tilt the board around to move the ball.


DB looks good!
 

mirrorimg

Well-Known Member
Its got a couple metal ones in the upper valve body, and 4 little rubber ones in the lower valve body. Imagine my surprise when these things started falling out into my drain pan...

Thanks Mark.

Also, I am in the market for a new (to me) truck. Im interested in getting a Datsun 620 KC (1977-1979). Preferably a 4spd manual with the hooks still on the bed. I like the functionality of a truck and think the thing looks pretty cool. I would eventually swap in a KA24DE and lower it, but I have to find one first...

Picture just for reference:
 
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