Clicking sound when cranking, sometimes starts

TegraTiger

New Member
Hi ya'll, noob here. If there's a thread that applies to my specific problem, please point me in the right direction. Thanks.

OK, here's my problem - I have a 91 Integra LS with a B18 motor. Sometimes it won't start but instead makes a clicking sound. Normally I would suspect the starter not working, so I swopped out the old starter with a new one (not a reman). I purposely made sure it worked by having the store hacks bench test it. It worked great on the bench, ran up full speed, the pinion gear went out like it's supposed to, everything worked great. So I install it, and the motor still won't start. IT CLICKS. I'm wondering if the clicking sound are the fuel injectors. Anybody ever heard of that before? I KNOW the starter is working properly because the tach (on the dash) shows the motor turning at 1000 rpms.

I checked the battery and replaced it anyways with a fresh new one, it has 550 CCA, so I'm sure it's more than adequate. I checked my repair manual and one of the things it said is to check the fuel pressure, and if the pressure is too low, replace the fuel filter. I'm in the "process" (more like an exercise in futility and humility because the damn banjo bolt won't budge , it's stuck) of changing out the fuel filter anyways, it's was due to get replaced, so why not right?

BUT, I still have no clue why the motor CLICKS like it's not got enough ass on it or not gettin enough fuel or somethin. It almost acts like it's under too much pressure and can't start.

BUT, when it DOES start, it runs great, no problems. So WTF?????

I checked the fuel pump, fuel pump relay, and wire harness, and they all checked out OK (using the repair manual guide). So why would the injectors CLICK????

I haven't checked to see if I'm getting any spark yet at the plugs, that's next. BUT, if I wasn't getting any spark, then why does the engine start (intermittently) and runs great ????

It's a big mystery to me. Anybody on here got a clue? :cry:
 

Samurai_Blue

Yolo Whippin'
the clicking could either be the main relay or the starter motor not having enough energy to start. are all the grounds in place/terminals clean?
 

TegraTiger

New Member
reply to Samurai_Blue

Samurai_Blue said:
the clicking could either be the main relay or the starter motor not having enough energy to start. are all the grounds in place/terminals clean?
Click to expand...
I tested the main relay (aka fuel pump relay), it tested OK, so I'm thinking maybe the brand new battery crapped out on me. I took it back to BatteriesPlus and they're doing a 24-hour test. Whatever the cause, I'm starting testing the battery. If it's not that, then I'll remove the starter and test that. If it's not that, then it's the brand new alternator.

I checked out the idea of it being the injectors, but the clicking sound THEY make is way quieter than what the starter makes. Stinking car. I'm tired of tinkering with it. I JUST WANNA DRIVE. :???:
 


Samurai_Blue

Yolo Whippin'
if the injectors arent going, the ECU could be at fault. try another battery, maybe the alternator isnt charging it fully
 

TegraTiger

New Member
reply to Samurai_Blue

Samurai_Blue said:
if the injectors arent going, the ECU could be at fault. try another battery, maybe the alternator isnt charging it fully
Click to expand...
Yeah, the ECU is the last thing I'll test cause it's the most expensive to repair. A friend said that car computers almost always never fail. So.....
 

Samurai_Blue

Yolo Whippin'
i would pop it open after the battery check to see if the ecu lid has burn marks on the lid. Or corosion and rust in the inside
 


gugiey

New Member
have you boost started is that how you get it running ?

I would suspect your neutral safety switch .
 

TegraTiger

New Member
reply

gugiey said:
have you boost started is that how you get it running ?

I would suspect your neutral safety switch .
Click to expand...
Sometimes I jump it, sometimes even with one of those "emergency" boosters, then it starts right up. But sometimes those boosters don't do a damn thing. The clutch pedal neutral safety switch connector wires have broken insulation issues, so I added some new ground wires to it to be sure the ground was good. (ground wire from the starter relay to the safety switch, ground wire from the switch to chassis ground). All the car ground wire connectors are clean and contacting bare metal (I burned up a wire brush wheel just cleaning it all).

@Samurai_Blue - I do have a leaking windshield/blower motor everytime it rains, so I know there may be some rust down on the floorboard under the carpet, but I'll def have to check the ECU case for that.
 

TegraTiger

New Member
Update

Well, I took out the starter and tested it myself in my driveway. Alls you need is:
  • the battery cable from the battery to the starter post (use the battery cable instead of the jumper cables cause it's safer),
  • jumper cables using the negative clamp on the battery negative post to the clamp on the mounting flange of the starter housing,
  • a heavy duty wire with a spade connector on one end, and a bare wire on the other end,
  • connect the spade connector to the starter terminal next to the battery cable post,
  • stabilize the starter with your foot (wear shoes dammit),
  • then touch the battery cable post with the bare wire end.
  • If the starter winds up and the pinion gear sticks out, it's good.
Only do this NO MORE THAN 10 SECONDS at a time or you could burn out the motor.

Well, it worked great, so I thought "well, if I didn't modify it at all since it was mounted on the engine 5 minutes ago, then it's got to have something else going on with it." So I took off one of the covers off the end (the one to the solenoid), and discovered that when the solenoid engages, there is a post on a spring with a hat-like copper disc that makes connection with 2 isolated copper plates. It comes out easy. One of the plates had raised bumps, the other one was flat & smooth. Also, the contact side of the hat-disc was rough. So, I took some Emory cloth (used in plumbing - get it at Home Depot), and sanded down those raised bumps on that copper plate to make it flat & smooth like the other one, then sanded down the rough side of the hat-disc to make it smooth. Then I re-assembled the end cover, and re-installed the starter. Lo & Behold, the damn thing works like a charm now. NO PROBLEMS.

Wished I had taken pictures, but I'm not taking it all apart just to show you. :roll:


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