HELP! Oil Pressure mount broke!

DA9Boi

New Member
So I noticed that i had a leak coming from the oil pressure sensor. I replaced it and it leaks like crazy now. now the place where you mount the oil pressure sensor broke off. Now is there a way to block off that whole. cause it just leaks hella oil out. Will JBWeld work to block off where the oil pressure sensor was?
 

g6qwerty

Member
First get a small mirror and light and look at where the oil pressure switch goes in and make sure the Block isn't Cracked.

I Broke where the oil pressure switch mounted to the block. I had tightened the oil pressure switch too much and I had a huge oil leak from there and I tighten it down some more and that's what broke it for me at the engine block. So I Removed the engine (room to work) and taped the Block and threaded in a bolt, I tried sealing the bolt with Red Thread Lock but that came out (May have not used enough) and also its Currently Sealed with Black RTV though its still seeping out a little oil all the time. Might need to tap a bigger bolt in. Used a 3/8" 24 NF Plug Tap and a 21/64" drill bit. The drill bit just fit in the hole easily.
 
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nahhee

New Member
First get a small mirror and light and look at where the oil pressure switch goes in and make sure the Block isn't Cracked.

I Broke where the oil pressure switch mounted to the block. I had tightened the oil pressure switch too much and I had a huge oil leak from there and I tighten it down some more and that's what broke it for me at the engine block. So I Removed the engine (room to work) and taped the Block and threaded in a bolt, I tried sealing the bolt with Red Thread Lock but that came out (May have not used enough) and also its Currently Sealed with Black RTV though its still seeping out a little oil all the time. Might need to tap a bigger bolt in. Used a 3/8" 24 NF Plug Tap and a 21/64" drill bit. The drill bit just fit in the hole easily.
Not to be a stickler for details but the tap drill size (easily found online) needs to be slightly larger than the major diamer (OD) of the original tapped hole. Also, you will want to use a tapered pipe plug not a standard (NF) thread. Check and see how the tap drill for 1/4 -18 NPT fits in the hole and try that. Good suggestion to OP to inspect the area first to ensure that block isn't cracked.

WRT to OP question it may be possible to use an easy out (e.g., a left handed thread extractor) and work the original plug out. If that doesn't work (most likely won't) in my teg there is sufficient clearance to use a right angle air drill and a short bit to drill out the original hole and tap it for a larger NPT or BSPT (the orginal hole is 1/8 BSPT) pipe thread size once you remove some of the stuff around the hole and the other sensors, cables, etc. Good luck.
 

DA9Boi

New Member
First get a small mirror and light and look at where the oil pressure switch goes in and make sure the Block isn't Cracked.

I Broke where the oil pressure switch mounted to the block. I had tightened the oil pressure switch too much and I had a huge oil leak from there and I tighten it down some more and that's what broke it for me at the engine block. So I Removed the engine (room to work) and taped the Block and threaded in a bolt, I tried sealing the bolt with Red Thread Lock but that came out (May have not used enough) and also its Currently Sealed with Black RTV though its still seeping out a little oil all the time. Might need to tap a bigger bolt in. Used a 3/8" 24 NF Plug Tap and a 21/64" drill bit. The drill bit just fit in the hole easily.
Yeah I think we have the same problem. Here's a photo. So should I make a deeper threads in the hole and put a bolt in there?

 


gugiey

New Member
Yeah I think we have the same problem. Here's a photo. So should I make a deeper threads in the hole and put a bolt in there?

if you broke this by tightening it to much then I would not touch it anymore . for what you did to that . you could damage it more just trying to tap it out .

should has used common sense and you would have no broke it .

I would take it to a professional mechanic so you don't fuck your block up .
 

mirrorimg

Well-Known Member
Clean up all the oil and jbweld it. You dont need that oil dummy light anyways.
 


g6qwerty

Member
Yeah I did the same thing Looks just like my block. I may try JB welding my block too.

But currently what I got is working just very slow oil seepage. May recommend a slightly bigger tap and bolt than i used. Used a 3/8" 24 NF Plug Tap and a 21/64" drill bit. May also be good to go with NPT or BSPT for threads. Don't know if it would work well or not.

After you try either Fix have somebody start the car and you watch for oil leak. Also have them rev up the car to make sure at the higher rps and pressure it don't fail.
 
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DA9Boi

New Member
Yeah I did the same thing Looks just like my block. I may try JB welding my block too.

But currently what I got is working just very slow oil seepage. May recommend a slightly bigger tap and bolt than i used. Used a 3/8" 24 NF Plug Tap and a 21/64" drill bit. May also be good to go with NPT or BSPT for threads. Don't know if it would work well or not.

After you try either Fix have somebody start the car and you watch for oil leak. Also have them rev up the car to make sure at the higher rps and pressure it don't fail.
Did you pull out the motor when you drilled and taped it? If I'm going to have to pull it out I might as well get another motor.
 

g6qwerty

Member
I pulled the motor with trany out because I didn't have enough space to work and also I want to make sure I taped the hole right. Now that I'm thinking back on it i think i may have a better way to do it cause it was really hard to get the tap started straight because of that lower part of the oil pressure that was still there.

So right now I would recommend doing jb weld unless you have the time and money to change the engine. get a little jb weld down the plug hole and some on the threads that are left so it holds best. Make sure it is clean of oil, as in Brake clean or soap and water, with a rag.

As for my improved idea. Drill out the hole with a bigger dill than the threads to the point where its a complete circle again then drill and tap and bolt or put a short length of pipe in there so you can put a oil pressure sensor on again.

Here is My Current Fix. Now I find out that the little Integrated control unit that is attached to the back of the fuse box on the driver side had 2 blown capacitors and a fried transistor so that's why the light was always on.


 
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DA9Boi

New Member
Looks good. So do you get little oil leaks? Or is it leak free? I'm about to go buy some jbweld tomorrow and try it out. Thanks for the information.
 

g6qwerty

Member
I get a little oil leak at the bottom of the bolt there, and its just RTV currently there, but I think the JB weld will work good for you.
So in the feature I would redo mine when I have some time.
 
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