What ECU do I use?

evilminion88

I ate the bones
Ok, I have a 90 DA Integra running on its stock PR4 ecu. I'm going to be swaping in a rebuilt high compression B18a1 motor. Now I wanted to use a B18b1 intake manifold insteated cus it not only looks nicer than the a1 manifold but it also doesn't have an EGR valve on it so that would be deleted (my DA is throwing a EGR DTC, I think it might be stuck open cus After cruising on the Hwy, my "check engine" light comes on and the teg idles like shit (EGR shouldn't be operating at idle, only at cruise). Plus, it has a port to directly connect the fuel regulator vacuum hose to the manifold without having to go through a ecu controled solenoid bolted to the firewall like the a1 manifold. (I have a suspesion it is faulty cus my DA is throwing a fuel DTC). So my question is, with the deletion of the EGR and all those BS vacuum hoses gone, due to the cleaner and more efficient design of the b1 manifold, do I need a P74ecu(93-95 OBD1non-vtec integra) or a P75 (96-00 OBD2 non-vtec integra) ecu for my teg to run normally without having it throw a check enigne light becuase all that crap is gone? Or will my PR4 ecu run just fine with the b1 IM? If anyone has done this before, which I'm positive someone has, please give my some insight. Thx.
 

Samurai_Blue

Yolo Whippin'
i think you will throw a code regardless
i think if you run obd2 you will have a code for the crank position sensor and other things i think
 

evilminion88

I ate the bones
Well I guess just a P74 OBD1 would do. And are you talking about the flashing light bulb in the OBD1 ecus? And Hondata would be the best and less fusturating path to take but money is an issue. But if needed, then Hondata it is then...
 

Samurai_Blue

Yolo Whippin'
evilminion88 said:
Well I guess just a P74 OBD1 would do. And are you talking about the flashing light bulb in the OBD1 ecus? And Hondata would be the best and less fusturating path to take but money is an issue. But if needed, then Hondata it is then...
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just get chrome its like 90% cheaper. and just take out the cluster bulb. for your cel
 

Nürburgring-Teg

New Member
On my DA9 with B18C5 Swap i use a european EF8 (CRX V-tec) Ecu and Engine Harness. For programiming i use a Piggyback Greddy ultimate.
 


Samurai_Blue

Yolo Whippin'
your point is valid but not entirely correct in this situation

90 da is obd0 which is not likely to throw a code for stuff as much as obd1
he is running a obd1 ecu which is throwing a code for the IM being obd2
your suggestion is downgrading to obd0 with the crx ecu.
 

evilminion88

I ate the bones
O that buld is what your talking about. O and going to OBD0 would be a step back... i just want to use the b1 IM. I plan going LS/vtec eventually but the bottem end in my teg has to be replaced now and I have a completely rebuilt a1 block and head. I'll run with a a1 head for now with that b1 IM, until I get some more $ down the road and get a vtec head and skunk2 IM for it.
 

Samurai_Blue

Yolo Whippin'
evilminion88 said:
O that buld is what your talking about. O and going to OBD0 would be a step back... i just want to use the b1 IM. I plan going LS/vtec eventually but the bottem end in my teg has to be replaced now and I have a completely rebuilt a1 block and head. I'll run with a a1 head for now with that b1 IM, until I get some more $ down the road and get a vtec head and skunk2 IM for it.
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just run obd1 ecu and take out the bulb for it in the cluster. or run with the light. i have my light on its fun to look at
 

Samurai_Blue

Yolo Whippin'
since you are going to get a LS/V set up in the future that would be the most logical solution so you can save money to get your LS V kid and run a ECU and then tune it later. :thumbs up
 

evilminion88

I ate the bones
With ls/vtec I was going to replace the ecu anyways, but like i said thats down the road. So, for now like you said I'll just take out that bulb
 
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