Turbo guys... I need your input...

[Ride Da Fire]

I finally picked up the engine hoist and engine stand today, I'm excited. Im ready to tear it down... all I need to hear from you guys is give me a GO and second opinions on this.

Engine Spec: 97 GSR JDM 180hp.

GOALS:

210 - 240 HP
RevHard Stage II turbo Kit
Neptune ECU
440cc injector and upgrade pump of course.
AEM fuel rail & B&M FPR
2.5 exhaust pipe & magnaflow quiet muffler
New OEM head gasket & New OEM head bolts ( will be done by friday 09/09/11
New OEM water pump (will be done by friday also)
Mishimoto Thermostat

My friend's dad used owned a car repair shop, he helps me to rebuild the head which the following:

New set of valves, valve seats, sleeves, guides... all OEM ( Reuse springs)

For the block I planned to purchase ALL OEM pistons, rods and bearings.

I don't have to spend a lot on the labor because he's nice enough to do it without charging me.... he's retired he doesn't has any better to do.

So do you think I do the right things on the block? I'm about to be a dad, I am not interested into racing or street race. I always wanted to turbo car and a little power on the side. With all the OEM parts, do you think my engine can handle 240whp? and use for DD? From home to the air force base is about 20 miles each way...

Any input would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks for your time.

 

[Anthonycomstock]

240 horses running stock internals should be fine. The only thing I would consider are connecting rods and pistons, though I've seen it done with OEM ones. I would also make sure all the oil galleys are thoroughly cleaned before putting everything back together again.

I've been doing a lot of reading for when it's time to rebuild my engine, but I have very little experience so take my opinion lightly

 

[Ride Da Fire]

240 horses running stock internals should be fine. The only thing I would consider are connecting rods and pistons, though I've seen it done with OEM ones. I would also make sure all the oil galleys are thoroughly cleaned before putting everything back together again.

I've been doing a lot of reading for when it's time to rebuild my engine, but I have very little experience so take my opinion lightly

Make perfect sense to me Anthony, I used to build turbo engine for a small aircrafts. We had to used solvents to clean out the galleys and bore-scope everything before put them back together.

THanks for your input.

 

[AlexD]

1. You are better off running a stock fpr as the b&m fpr's are horrible
2. you might as well do the oil pump while you are doing the water pump. It just makes sense, and its less to think about going wrong.
3. 210-240hp is achievable and usually is fine with a stock motor, just make sure you get a good tune (as always). Keep a wideband mounted to keep tabs on your AFR's
4. If you can dish out the extra money, just go ARP head studs if possible. They are not that much more expensive than stock head bolts and are much better.

Theres no reason why you could DD your run of the mill turbo setup as long as you have reliable parts and a good tune.

 

[Ride Da Fire]

1. You are better off running a stock fpr as the b&m fpr's are horrible
2. you might as well do the oil pump while you are doing the water pump. It just makes sense, and its less to think about going wrong.
3. 210-240hp is achievable and usually is fine with a stock motor, just make sure you get a good tune (as always). Keep a wideband mounted to keep tabs on your AFR's
4. If you can dish out the extra money, just go ARP head studs if possible. They are not that much more expensive than stock head bolts and are much better.

Theres no reason why you could DD your run of the mill turbo setup as long as you have reliable parts and a good tune.

Yeah...... I'm ebay my OEM head bolts tomorrow. As for the Oil pump... it will be replace too.... I forgot to mention that. I do not want to hit 300hp or 300hp..... I think the engine can handle it but where I live the weather can get extremely hot and too much power can kill my car faster.

 

[Tam4511]

you can get forged internals for the same price as oem internals, so you might as well get some forged rods and pistons.

and you will want a 3" exhaust

 

[AlexD]

For his goals, a 2.5 inch exhaust is probably going to be the least of his worries, however he would stand to free up some more power with 3 inch.


Oh did I mention. OEM FPR.

 

[Tam4511]

yeah but im assuming he goes forged ( if he doesn't hes wasting money) and assuming the boost bug bites him just like it bites every one else.

Plan for the future, not just your immediate goal.

 

[Ride Da Fire]

After gathered up all the inputs and researched I decided to keep everything as stock....

This is my first JDM engine, I bought it from HMotorOnline.com ... I'm sure they're an honest company.... but I am not sure if I can trust the company oversea though. They're said my engine is about 10k - 50k miles on in. I affraid if my engine is at 50k then I assumed it can't handle that 240hp for very long.. i could be wrong too. Well.... I went to returned most of the parts back to the acura dealer here... had to paid 15% on restocking parts but it's ok......

Yeah.. I'm set on 210 - 240hp no more than that. I'm sure boost bug will bite me but it will be a long way down the road....

Thanks a lot for your help guys...... I really appreciate all the inputs.

sorry guys for keep asking a bunch of questions...... but i really do appreciate your help.... thanks again

 

[Tam4511]

no problem, and that motor should hold up for a very long time with that power.

 

[Ride Da Fire]

which one down here is best for my RH stage II turbo?

 

[Prozon]

Alex, what's wrong with b&m fpr's? I'm running one with no issues.

I agree you should also do the oil pump while your at it.
I wouldn't buy new OEM pistons, if anything re-use your pistons or buy forged.

The miles on the motor do not really determine how well it can handle boost. A simple leakdown test/compression test can tell you what you need to know. 50-100k are new engines in my opinion.

For your fuel pump go with a Walbro 255lph pump.
For your intercooler I would go with the smaller front mount. Mishimoto is a great brand for that.
2.5" should be plenty for that power, but 3" exhaust will give you room for improvement when the boost bug bites.

Your motor should have no issues handling that power all day long. But I have to tell you- that boost bug bites hard. I didn't even go a week and i'm already itching for a new motor with more power.

(And YES, i'm kicking myself in the ass for not going with forged internals on my rebuild.)

 

[AlexD]

Alex, what's wrong with b&m fpr's? I'm running one with no issues.

I agree you should also do the oil pump while your at it.
I wouldn't buy new OEM pistons, if anything re-use your pistons or buy forged.

The miles on the motor do not really determine how well it can handle boost. A simple leakdown test/compression test can tell you what you need to know. 50-100k are new engines in my opinion.

For your fuel pump go with a Walbro 255lph pump.
For your intercooler I would go with the smaller front mount. Mishimoto is a great brand for that.
2.5" should be plenty for that power, but 3" exhaust will give you room for improvement when the boost bug bites.

Your motor should have no issues handling that power all day long. But I have to tell you- that boost bug bites hard. I didn't even go a week and i'm already itching for a new motor with more power.

(And YES, i'm kicking myself in the ass for not going with forged internals on my rebuild.)

Guys, the price between an OEM style piston and a forged piston is night and day. I recall seeing ITR pistons for less than $200. My wisecos were over 400 brand new. not to mention rods are $350.

Prozon are you tuned yet by any chance? My tuner says the B&M fprs are nothing but problems. I was running one on my integra when I went this year and my car kept leaning out and BAD up top during my pulls. we replaced it with an OEM FPR and my entire MAP went rich. Had to do 2 or 3 pulls just to get my AFRs back on the dot because it richened up my map so much.

Told me it was the 2nd car this week he had an issue with as far as the fpr went.

So the conclusion is, the b&m fpr is a waste of money and only serves its purpose in terms of looks. If you want a real fpr, go AEM or Aeromotive. Otherwise, youre good with stock.

 

[AlexD]

which one down here is best for my RH stage II turbo?

Keep in mind that these stages you talk about vary from company to company. Just because your stage II turbo kit is stage II doesnt mean its universal. If you compare it to a full race kit, it would be a stage -10.

You should base your decisions on your driving goals and power level.

In which I say that you dont need a large intercooler to get away with making 200hp, technically you wouldnt even need an intercooler at all. But for the sake of intercoolers honestly pick any sort of intercooler you want.

Go on ebay and buy a small one, a godspeed one, mishimoto it doesnt matter.

When you start making big power and im talking 500+ then you have to be a little more serious about which type you go with.

Personally, I would check into the treadstone intercoolers. Their designs are pretty nice and affordable.

 

[Prozon]

Guys, the price between an OEM style piston and a forged piston is night and day. I recall seeing ITR pistons for less than $200. My wisecos were over 400 brand new. not to mention rods are $350.

I wasn't saying the cost of the pistons were the same. I was saying there is no need to replace a piston during a rebuild unless it's damaged, which often is not the case.

I wouldn't install a FPR or a fuel rail at all honestly. No need to at that power.

Alex is correct about the intercoolers- but I would go with the smaller front mount intercooler for the sake of fitment.