Strut Bars????

[gunnersmatevls]

Hey, I just wanted everyones opinion about there preffered brands of strut bar. I have a Skunk2 front strut bar and am buying the rear too. I could defintly feel a dif in handling. What do you all have and what do u think of urs?

 

[hyper98gsr]

im a little skeptical on the whole strut bar issue. kinda like the intake issue. i think an aluminum bar is an aluminum bar. i see alot of "name brand" strut bars that look exactly like the "imitation" ones. and they are both made from the same strength aluminum. hats the difference?

on the other hand there are the special strut bars that actually have engineering into them. like the mugen. and the ones that have a couple different mounting points for maximum stability. those i can see a reason for the different price. but even they are imitated now, so which one to buy? also remember, most of the top companies out there started off by imitating other popular products. until they could afford to invest in their own engineers.

 

[SlyDC2]

ehh some are shitty some are good. DC= CRAP, stock is even better then that.

i want the carbing type ii upper strut bar, and comptech lower sway/tie bar

 

[hyper98gsr]

what makes the dc strut bar crap?

 

[SlyDC2]

my stock strut bar is stronger then the dc, i had both on my car when i bought it... when i can flex the little thing by barely touching it that makes it crap in my opinion

 

[DownShift96GSR]

Yeah, thats not a good thing if you can flex yours. I bought this real cheap Type R look a likes. They suck. They are hallow and I could easily bend em. I'm waiting to buy some Skunk2 bars.

 

[Baldy201]

Strut bars are diffrent even the imitation ones are not the same as the real ones. Like said above the imitation Type R bar that you buy on Ebay for $20 or something is not as stif as the real ITR bar. It is all in the mouning points, adjustibility and the type of bar used.

 

[hyper98gsr]

Strut bars are diffrent even the imitation ones are not the same as the real ones. Like said above the imitation Type R bar that you buy on Ebay for $20 or something is not as stif as the real ITR bar. It is all in the mouning points, adjustibility and the type of bar used.

??what?? what exactly do you mean by "stif?" what about when they adjust in the same spot? and if its made for the same car, the mounting points will obviously be the same. plus, every strut bar i ever seen has been hollow.

as you might know, i do NDI for a living. thats non-destructive inspector. we pretty much inspect metals for cracks and many other defects, without destroying them. (ie. dye penetrant, magnaflux, etc)
i have a 2 gsr strut bars sitting in my garage right now. i compared one of them to a well known "no-name" bar i got from one of my friends. they are both heat treated aluminum. i cant get the exact heat code, but when i tested them they both had the same conductivity curve(which means they are the same metal). and they both have the exact same make. both are hollow and they both weigh the same. the only difference i can see is the price.

the only time im picky with parts' brand names, is when they're going inside my motor.

 

[Baldy201]

What i ment to say it that some strut bars at the mounting point swivl.

Notice where the bar meets the mounting bracket, the "Civic Type R" bar only has one bolt to hold it in place and the other one will be more stiff since it has two mounting bolts.

 

[hyper98gsr]

oh ok i see what you are saying. maybe that specific bar has a need for that extra bolt because there obviously isn't enough support where it bolts to the car. and you are actually proving my point because they are both knock-offs.

 

[Todd]

i have a DC lower rear tie bar, and upper front and rear strut tower bars, my chassis is stiff as can be... almost a lil too stiff