Rotor Question
- Thread starter samace_sg
- Start date
speedin
The Transporter
hum... Warping could cause it, but it would be off an on resistance spinning the tire. Under hard braking did you car shake? Constant resistance I dont think rotor failure can cause that, all that can cause constant resistance in the brakes would be like if the pads were still pushing against the rotor when he stoped it. Now if it was the rear.... E-brake all the way for a constant resistance.samace_sg said:Need advice.... Took my car to shop to get tire replaced and the guy ended up lifting the front end... he checked my passenger front tire.... he then told me that the wheel doesn't spin freely and has something to do with my rotor... what do you guys think
speedin
The Transporter
yes dust cant hold a pad still (forgot that one lol), But it will stll break loose. And thats still not the rotor. I smell BS unless the rotor is warpedLiEkjAi said:all the brake dust? how good is the brakes?
speedin
The Transporter
Warped..... Tell him to measure the thickness in 6 spots for you. Thats the warp test. And if their warped... yes you need a new rotor, but not imedeately.samace_sg said:..well the brakes work pretty good... he said that it spins until a certain point then he has to apply a little more pressure to turn past that point...
speedin
The Transporter
Wont pull, Unless your on the breaks then it can do alot of things, pulling vibrating, shimmying. That loose noise is something else.samace_sg said:would that effect my alignment because for some reason my steering is off to the right... I also hear all this noise like loose rods or something from steering...
speedin
The Transporter
well from the sound of it he has an off alighnment and warped rotors. If the measurement test comes back and shows the numbers arnt equal then their warped.g3teg97 said:My advice is take a an alignment shop. Have an alignment done one the car, rotate the tires, and inspect the rotors and pads. It's hard to say without looking at it.
speedin
The Transporter
For the Rotors? The BRAKE rotors?? lol.g3teg97 said:And the best way to find out...take it to the alignment shop!
samace_sg
Second Glance
ok so .. went to mechanic... he eliminated the clunks by tightening some bolts on lower control arm... but he did tell me my rear engine mount was going out... Great!..... then I got an alignment and its drives fine other than the fact that the warped rotor is pulling the car to the right slightly
dc2GS-R
Super Moderator
If you are just looking for a cheap fix, then just pull the front rotors off and get them turned. It costs like $10 a rotor and it will smooth them out if they aren't warped too bad. And, if you replace only one engine mount, you can count on the others going out right after that. The extra stiffness from th one new engine mount will put more stress on the other old, partially worn mounts and cause them to go quickly. It's best to do all of them at once
teg9five
a.k.a. crabs!
dial indicator will be more accurate. it wont tell you any thicknesses but it will show you if and where theres high and low spots and how much.speedin said:Warped..... Tell him to measure the thickness in 6 spots for you. Thats the warp test. And if their warped... yes you need a new rotor, but not imedeately.
but like dc2GS-R said... take them and get them machined if possible. sometimes they cant be cut if they have worn too thin because you want them to be as thick as possible to disapate the heat better.
and on another note... you should machine your rotors every time you change your pads. youre actually supposed to. it will help prevent further damage to the rotor and you will be able to stop much better