ok. it happened again.

cripemaster

New Member
while car was driving the car died and i couldn't turn it back on. talked to mechanic he said it could be crank sensor or cam sensor. does the b18a1 have 1 or 2 cam sensors? has anyone ever changed them before? where is my ecu on my 1990? any help is greatly appreciated. thanks.
 

Samurai_Blue

Yolo Whippin'
ecu is always on passanger side. either under the floor board or on the door pannel under the glove box
 

evilminion88

I ate the bones
OK first or all Hond B- series engines do not have a CMP (cam position sensor) or a CKP (crank position sensor). For any other car that has these two sensors, if one of these aren't working the car will not start like the mechanic said. But this is a B series engine and Honda decided to be different and basically said F*** CKP and CMP sensors. Trust me I'm rebuilding my B18a1 and it does not have a CKP or CMP sensor. So, for the no start it could be alot of things. First look to manditory replacment engine components that could cause the problem, like the injectors, starter, etc. Check your battery voltage with a voltmeter, if it reads lower than 12.6v then the battery isn't good, and needs a recharge. Check your entire ignition system from the battery to the starter, alternator, and follow it all the way through the primary and secondary ignition system. For all you know it could be fouled spark plugs.
 


cripemaster

New Member
OK first or all Hond B- series engines do not have a CMP (cam position sensor) or a CKP (crank position sensor). For any other car that has these two sensors, if one of these aren't working the car will not start like the mechanic said. But this is a B series engine and Honda decided to be different and basically said F*** CKP and CMP sensors. Trust me I'm rebuilding my B18a1 and it does not have a CKP or CMP sensor. So, for the no start it could be alot of things. First look to manditory replacment engine components that could cause the problem, like the injectors, starter, etc. Check your battery voltage with a voltmeter, if it reads lower than 12.6v then the battery isn't good, and needs a recharge. Check your entire ignition system from the battery to the starter, alternator, and follow it all the way through the primary and secondary ignition system. For all you know it could be fouled spark plugs.
Thank you for the help. Getting the car back monday cause it's locked up at the mechanic's since it's 4th of july weekend. turns out its the distributors, plugs, and wires that all need replacing. I'm gonna do it myself cause he quoted me 1100 dollars!!!!!! so if anyone knows of a writeup where they walk you through the distributor change please post. thanks again for all the help.
 

maq

New Member
OK first or all Hond B- series engines do not have a CMP (cam position sensor) or a CKP (crank position sensor). For any other car that has these two sensors, if one of these aren't working the car will not start like the mechanic said. But this is a B series engine and Honda decided to be different and basically said F*** CKP and CMP sensors. Trust me I'm rebuilding my B18a1 and it does not have a CKP or CMP sensor. So, for the no start it could be alot of things. First look to manditory replacment engine components that could cause the problem, like the injectors, starter, etc. Check your battery voltage with a voltmeter, if it reads lower than 12.6v then the battery isn't good, and needs a recharge. Check your entire ignition system from the battery to the starter, alternator, and follow it all the way through the primary and secondary ignition system. For all you know it could be fouled spark plugs.
They do have CKP. It's inside the dizzy. As well as the TDC sensor. I had this argument with a guy at a local shop.

Thank you for the help. Getting the car back monday cause it's locked up at the mechanic's since it's 4th of july weekend. turns out its the distributors, plugs, and wires that all need replacing. I'm gonna do it myself cause he quoted me 1100 dollars!!!!!! so if anyone knows of a writeup where they walk you through the distributor change please post. thanks again for all the help.
Yea you can do it a hell of a lot cheaper than 1000. Make sure thats what it needs before you go buy a new dizzy. I got mine for $90 from delray honda in florida. I had bad bearings and shavings everywhere in mine.

Changing it is very easy and takes about 5-10 minutes. Three 12mm bolts hold on the dizzy. It has 2 wire harnesses that connect to it. It will only go on there one way so don't worry about getting it out of time.

The wire order on the dizzy is as fallows reading it clock wise...Cylinder 3 is at 12 o-clock, 4 is at 3 o-clock, 2 is at 6 o-clock, and 1 is at 9 o-clock position. The Cylinders are from left to right...4--3--2--1.

You'll know if its wrong because it will idle rough and wont have any power and will rev very slow. If it idles good and revs good its right. Take a marker and mark where the top of the old dizzy is for when you put the new one on. You don't want it too advanced or retarded.
 


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bfatdaintegra

IM motorvated
x2 on the dizzy anyone that dont know that should be shot and should be banned form workin on hondas what do u think all those wires are in side the dizzy under the coil?
 

maq

New Member
One quick way to rule out the dizzy i found is to try and start the car and watch the tach. If the needle bounces up and down the dizzy is fine. The computer knows it's firing and it should start. As soon as i replaced mine the needle started bouncing and fired right up.
 

cripemaster

New Member
thanks for the help guys. i got the "new" one today for free cause the other was under warranty (thank god), but it's remanufactured so i'm skeptical, but at least it will suffice for now. thanks for the help again guys.
 
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