Oil Lights Blinks

[alainm1]

Ok I know there's alot of thread concerning Oil Lights blinking but I just need some advice before changing my oil pump. my teg have only 167k miles motor still oem parts but have AEM intake, MSD 6AL, SS blaster 2 coil, NGK wires NGK OEM plugs. All been installed 1 year ago.

Problem just now..... Oil light start and still bllinking for the past week...

What I have done and what I have.
I have a glowshift pressure gauge and rpm digital guage.. reads 20 psi at idle (750rpm) minimum is 10psi and @ 3000rpm reads 80psi. Seems high but minimum is 50psi.

Removed and replaced my pressure sending unit.

check all wiring and everything checks fine.

check main and rod bearing using plastiguage... checks out good and within clearance. When I removed my oil pan oil was clean and hardly no metal shavings, runned a magnet to the old oil. Pick up tube cleaned and seal replaced.

replaced oil and oil filter.

No leaking of oil or burning smell

Compression check good.

Timing and valve clearance checks good.

Is there anything i might be missing here or have not done before replacing my oil pump. Any advice will work.

 

[Muckman]

It sounds like you've covered all the bases already.

There is no sense replacing the oil pump if the pressure is good. Your pressures look great. I would look harder at the oil pressure sender and wiring again. If its intermittent than it could be a short in the wiring. Try jiggling the wire have someone watch for the light see if you can make it go on/off. Also try unplugging it. With the sender unplugged the light should never come on, ever. If it still does that means you def have a short somewhere. Actually if you have a real pressure guage then Id just leave it unplugged, its worthless.

 

[dopematic]

^^ exactly what I do. Since I have a oil pressure gauge I unplugged that dummy stock oil pressure unit that doesn't even come on until your motors already starved of oil and damage is done. There's no need to replace your oil pump since your oil pressure is normal.

I'm willing to bet it's a wiring issue as well.

 

[dopematic]

^^ exactly what I do. Since I have a oil pressure gauge I unplugged that dummy stock oil pressure unit that doesn't even come on until your motors already starved of oil and damage is done. There's no need to replace your oil pump since your oil pressure is normal.

I'm willing to bet it's a wiring issue as well.

 

[alainm1]

I'm thinking the same way of just disconnecting the pressure sending unit. I actually have the guage sending unit to the original location of the oil pressure sending unit. Reinstalled the oil pressure sensor to the oil filter sandwich adaptor from glowshift.

My ICU might be going bad internally.
I'm stubborn you may thinking of still want everything connected.

 

[Muckman]

The ICU & ECU are not aware of oil pressure. Thats why you can disconnect it without repercussion.

But if you want it connected then find the short.

 

[alainm1]

Ok I drove my car again and again i guess oil pressure really dropping when engine runs for atleast 15mins hot engine reading aare 6-10 psi@idle and 60-65@3000 when the engine runs for awhile compare to cold engine as I previously post 20psi@idle and 80psi@3000.

@muckman--- Oil lamp and oil pressure sensor are connected to ICU pin b13 from connector 12-P and there where the oil lamp flasher circuit.

 

[Muckman]

That's to trigger the light on your cluster. Your Ecu is not aware of oil pressure at all which is why you can drive around with it disconnected and no check engine light. However now it sounds like you have legitimate oil pressure problems.

The oil light is supposed to come on around 5psi. Our engines will idle (hot) around 8-10psi. Usually low oil pressure indicates main or rod bearing damage. If you are sure there are no metal flakes are in the oil pan then I guess the only thing left is to replace the oil pump.

Have you tried a thicker weight oil?