no idle 92 integra b18a1

oldschool92

New Member
I have a 92 integra LS with a b18a1, I have a list of things done to it. I cannot get it to idle period. Just rebuilt the motor, I put type r nippon pistons in it, had the head ported/polished, polished the crank and put stage 2 crower cams in it. So far I have all the normal bolt ons, header, intake, full exhaust, fuel gauge, regulator, and chipped the ECU. I have a new distributor, cleaned the eacv, changed out the other valve that has coolant to it, changed the map sensor, fuel pump, tank, thermostat, bleed the cooling system. I replaced the tps, thermal sensor, oil sending unit. Put in another set if injectors (stock) Everything everyone has said to try I have done. Still no idle, and the plugs are new. Pulled them back out to check them and they are covered in black carbon but not fuel or oil. I have adjusted the valves and double checked them. I put my ECU in my buddies car and his runs fine with it. I changed out the ignition and the main relay. There is NO check engine light on so no codes to get from the ECU. It had this problem before I rebuilt it and replaced all this stuff. Before it would atleast idle just jumped up and down. I replaced all the vacuum lines as well. I am clueless and running out of money. I have talked to alot of people and read so many forums. It acts like it just runs out of fuel but the gauge says otherwise. It shut down on the hwy one day and has not been right since then. Been a mechanic since I was in diapers and I cannot figure this out. Please someone help me get this beast fixed!
 

xxBLOOD88SHOTxx

Surge Master
You've checked the idle screw and made sure it is correct?

Can you hold the throttle open and keep it going?

You may have fuel pressure but is it consistent? Can you pull the fuel line from the filter, turn the key and the pump primes quickly or slowly?

Hooked up a vacuum gauge and see what you're getting?
 

oldschool92

New Member
Fuel guage ontop of the filter shows it to be staying at 40+ psi. I just put in a AEM high flow pump in it. It runs good once you get past about 2,000 rpm. I have not done a vacuum test since I got the motor put in. It primes fast, I messed with the ignition timing just to see if that helped. It seems to be sucking pretty hard to get air once the rpms fall bellow 800 rpm. When it gets that low it takes a few seconds to get it back up because it just wants to die. I also pulled the return line loose after the fuel rail just to be sure the fuel was getting that far and it was good. Runs ok on the hwy kinda feels like it has an occcasional miss in it. I put an accell coil in it also, wondering if that might be going bad...? New pcv valve also... I just took it out for a joy ride, has plenty of power but has a steady miss. My coil is out of warranty by a month so gonna have to buy another one. With everything else being new and its a yr old kinda think it is (part) of the problem. Also it has started reving up and down pretty steady when I get an idle held with the throttle. Still no check engine lights.
 
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xxBLOOD88SHOTxx

Surge Master
Does your CEL light work?

Why not put the OEM coil back on?

Does it only do this hot or cold or all the time?

Did you clean off the plugs then run it again and see if some are worse than others?

Anything TB related and has to do with how the car idles I would go back though. Clean and double check etc. From what I gather you haven't looked into any of that yet.
 


oldschool92

New Member
cleaned plugs, took throttle plate off, cleaned adjusted idle screw, I threw the stock coil away cause it was toast. It runs the same hot or cold, but maybe a lil easier to keep running when cold. Cell light does work because when I unhook anything and run it the light comes on. I went back through it this morning and still nothing. I can make it run a little better but no where near right with the idle screw. So it has to be something else. I would trailer this thing across the united states to have my daily DA back. I am so frustrated with it at this point. Never have had one do this to me that I could not get fixed. I also double checked the pcv valve. If I meter my coil and my map sensor how do I know they are good. My manual does not give this info... I took the eacv off and cleaned it, checked it with 12v and it plunges in and out perfect. Is there something else in it that can be bad?
 
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xxBLOOD88SHOTxx

Surge Master
Does it run better when you open or close the screw?

Made absolutely sure the timing is correct?

Pump is getting a constant 12v?
 

oldschool92

New Member
adjusting the screw has really only made it worse, makes it harder to drive (keep the idle up enough that it wont die) Timing should be correct, I lined the marks up on the cam gears, put pins in the cams through the holes in the cam cradle, then lined the crank gear up when putting on the belt. I adjusted the ignition timing but seems to be the best right in the center. Can I check the voltage for the pump at the float/sending unit under the back seat? Or do I need to drop the tank again? I did notice that my fuel guage is a lil off since I replaced the tank and the pump. May have bent the rod that the float goes on, but I know it has plenty of fuel in it. When running at say 3,000 rpm in any gear and trying to hold the throttle steady it seems to miss or jump around alot. Not smooth at all. In town or on the hwy its the same. I think I will put a timing light on it to be absolutely sure. Can you give me a list of things to check for the idle and I will go over them 1 at a time. Will do another vacuum test this week and be sure of no leaks.
 


oldschool92

New Member
I checked the power to the pump and it has 12.32 volts, shuts off after about 15 sec of turning the key on as it should. I put a brand new distributor in and it runs great out on the hwy. Will not idle at all at a stop sign or in my driveway. In town it is bucking and jecking when getting on and off the throttle. Any more ideas cause I am all out and my brain hurts! Please help. When I work the throttle and keep it running I can hold it at say 800 rpm and then out of nowhere it will ramp up to bout 4000+ rpm. Then when idles back down its back to wanting to die again.
 
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xxBLOOD88SHOTxx

Surge Master
Yeah that is crazy as hell, it has to be something like the FICV, IACV not being adjusted correctly, old and not working properly etc. I thought maybe the dash pot but from what I've read that doesn't really do anything.

Was the intake manifold removed when the engine was rebuilt? Like maybe the gasket could be torn or something on it or the throttle body by chance?
 

oldschool92

New Member
Yes I put a new gasket on it, checked to be sure it was not leaking. Did a vacuum test on it and it has great vacuum. Pulled the throttle body off and cleaned all out and replaced the gasket. It has been doing this since before I rebuilt it accept it would stay running before. When it (First) started this I pulled out of the gas station. It sputtered a lil then straitened up. Got out on the hwy and it did it for a sec then started running good again. Made it a mile or so and it started shutting down. Let it sit for bout 30 mins and it fired back up. Drove back toward my house about 30 miles and it died again for good. Never has been right since and the list of new parts has gotten pretty big since then. But still will not stay running. Not bad gas cause I put several thousand miles on it with the crappy idle.
 

oldschool92

New Member
Has to be something simple, maybe a bad gas cap or something. Thought about pulling the tank back down and blowing all the lines out. The ones under the hood are all new. I had done nothing diff or changed any parts when the problem began. Do you know how to check the map sensor itself. I have looked but all I can find is how to check the wiring for the sensor.
 

xxBLOOD88SHOTxx

Surge Master
swap it with a known good one?

Your car has to be haunted lol.

The map sensor has to be pressure converted into an electrical signal for the ecu to read (a transducer), so with the key on and the engine off it should read a certain voltage (atmospheric pressure) which may vary some from your altitude. There has to be something somewhere that says it should read this amount of voltage at this point or something like that.

Just a shot in dark you know.
 

oldschool92

New Member
My wife says it is haunted, I think it just hates her! haha Question, on the end of the plunger or (rod) inside the eacv could that not be sealing off or be worn and cause it to not seal right inside there? Off the car with 12 volts applied to it, it plunges in and out perfect, but could it be letting air/gases by within itself?
 

oldschool92

New Member
Ok, my buddy just brought his civic over, has the b18b in it, I tried his EACV and it didn't change a thing. Still would not idle. You think I should up the injector size? Know of anyone around my area (Neosho Mo.) who knows what they are doing and could take a look at it for me? I am affraid to just take it to any shop because they will want to throw parts at it and I have spent a but load.
 

xxBLOOD88SHOTxx

Surge Master
Looks like you're outside Joplin, which means you are in the middle of nowhere. You can join g2IC.com (second generation integra club) they will help you out more then this place. This thread has 157 views and I'm the only one trying to help you out, that's fucked up.

Did you try swapping map sensors from his car? Also have no idea what the EACV is, just the IACV.

You said you put stock injectors in right?

If you do take it to a shop and they decide to replace something, have them ask you to authorize it first.
 
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