New To The Tuner's I Need Help!!!!

loki1993

New Member
I NEED HELP, I JUST PURCHASED A 1993 INTEGRA AND DID SOME WORK TO GET IT RUNING. IT RUNS GREAT UNTIL IT COMES UP TO TEMP THEN THE CHECK ENGINE SOON LITE COMES ON AND IT STARTS SPITTING AND SPUTTERING AND LOOSING POWER. IT PROGRESIVELY GETS WORST AND THE CAR LACKS POWER. IT TRIES TO GO BUT IT JUST MISSES AND AT A STOP IT WILL TRY TO DIE. BUT AT TIMES IT WILL STRAIGHTEN OUT FOR A LIL BIT THEN GOES BACK TO CRAP. I COULD REALY USE SOME HELP IM USED TO MY 91 CAMARO WHICH LACKS ALL THE DIFFERENT SENSORS AND DOODADS THIS TEG HAS.
 

cooki3monstr

snarf
welcome to the forum. try to make it a habit of searching your problems before you propose them to us.
if you can pull the cel code, thatd narrow the problem down a lot.
 

Man A

homewreker
he probably doesnt know how to pull the code so..

on the passenger side under the dash there is a wire connector with 2 wires in it . jump those 2 wires and turn the key to the on position. then take a look at the CEL(check engine light) in the gauge cluster and it will blink out the code that you need. a short blink lets say 3 will be code 03 map sensor. a long blink followed by a short blink lets say 2 long and 3 short is 23 knock sensor. i hope you under stand that. heres the list of all the codes

0 - ECU
1 - Oxygen Sensor
3 - MAP Sensor
5 - MAP Sensor
6 - Crank Angle
7 - Throttle Angle
8 - TDC Position
9 - No. 1 Cylinder Position
10 - Intake Air Temperature
12 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) System
13 - Atmosphere Pressure
14 - Electronic Air Control
15 - Ignition Output Signal
16 - Fuel Injector
17 - Vehicle Speed Sensor
20 - Electronic Load Detector
22 - VTEC System Malfunction
23 - Knock Sensor
41 - O2 Sensor
43 - Fuel Supply System
45 - System Too Rich or Too Lean
48 - Primarry Heated O2 Sensor
54 - Crankshaft Speed Fluctuation Sensor
61 - Primary O2 Sensor Circuit
63 - Secondary O2 Sensor Circuit
67 - Catalyst System
70 - Automatic Transaxle
71-74 - Random Misfire
80 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation
86 - Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit
90 - Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected
91 - Fuel Tank Pressure Circuit
92 - Evaporative Emission Control System Insufficient

sometimes youll get more than one code. they will be displayed one at a time. like 3 shorts followed by 6 shorts would be 3 map sensor and 6 crank angle. i myself am thinking the o2 sensor is bad. but wtf do i know im not a mechanic.

good luck and welcome.
 


loki1993

New Member
Ok well new update i checked the timing and it was a little off so i sr set the timing by the book to the markes and now it turns over but wont start. i double checked to see if i was at #1 tdc on the compression stroke and i am i pulled plugs and checked and i have a nice redish orange spark and the firing order is correct. i opend the bleeder screw andi got plenty of fule pressure. so now what it just turns over and dont even try to fire. i did a dry compression test and i got 90 psi i forgot to open the throtle so it was a little low, but still no where near the 179 it should be. all 4 cylinders are within 5 pounds of eachother so im stumped. i tried starter fluid and it didnt even try to fire up it just spins. could the injectors themselves not be working? oh the code was the egr valve used a lil sea foam and it cleared up and i cleared the computer of codes. rest assured if i come to yall with a question its cuz im crosseyed from researching the problem on my owne. thanks for any help you have
 

shocker

New Member
if it was starting and running before and you adjusted the timing and now it wont start then you adjusted it way off...yes it will still be getting fuel and spark but its getting them at the wrong time hence the timing being off..it is possible that the timing belt is a tooth off so when u adjusted the timing it sent it way outa whack, this is just my thoughts thats where id start because it sounds like a timing problem to me.so id pull the side covers off of the timing belt and pull your valve cover off so you can line up all the little timing marks and check that first because if thats correct then go back and double check that you set the timing correctly because im not sure how you set the timing without the car running and using a timing light.
 

Man A

homewreker
QUOTE=shocker;355643] im not sure how you set the timing without the car running and using a timing light.[/QUOTE]

nice:rocker:[

what code did you get? correct me if im wrongbut arnt EGRs are for automatics.
you never specified
 


loki1993

New Member
egr, exhaust gass recirculation , valve. mine is a automatic . timing is static timing done by using designated marks on both cams and the crank pulley. when set to those locations you should be able to start the car and fine tune timing using the distributor.
 

shocker

New Member
read this...compliments of asashop.org...it explains everything about your egr and the problems it will cause including the way it was running when it gets up to full operating temp.....

With Honda's PGM-FI fuel injection, it is now possible to monitor EGR valve lifts. If the ECM does not see the EGR lift during expected EGR operation, it will turn on the “Check Engine” light for code 12 on pre-OBD-II vehicles. The lift values are programmed into the ECM for the different engine loads and drive cycles. When diagnosing a Honda EGR system it is always good to remember the basics - so let's look at the basics of code 12.

A lift sensor on top of the EGR valve works just like a TPS sensor. There are three wires: a signal wire (yellow or white/blue) that goes back to the ECM, a 5-volt reference wire and a ground wire. With the EGR valve closed, the voltage should be about 1.2 volts. Normally anything more than 1.4 volts will set the light because the ECM thinks the EGR valve is open when it should not be. The voltage will increase as the valve opens. The ECM watches the voltage and then compares it to the predetermined values set in the programming of the ECM. The EGR is lifted by engine vacuum and the ECM has a solenoid it grounds when it commands EGR operation. The ECM will ground this solenoid when it sees the correct engine temperature, correct MAP sensor voltage, and throttle position sensor voltage. With the solenoid, the constant vacuum control (CVC) valve controls a constant vacuum for EGR operation. This valve takes the manifold vacuum signal and puts it to a constant 8 to 10 inches. Without a constant vacuum signal, EGR operation would be erratic. The EGR solenoid and the CVC valve location varies by model, but are often found in the black emission boxes under the hood on the fire wall. To locate, use a component locator or just follow the vacuum line.

Testing for a code 12 is not difficult if you read what the EGR lift sensor is doing in relation to engine operation. The most important thing to remember is that when the engine control unit grounds the solenoid, the valve should have its full vacuum signal within one second. A slow or delayed vacuum signal or no signal will set a code 12. If it is a slow or low vacuum signal, it will not lift the valve fast enough or far enough and the code will set. If the solenoid and the system check out at the time of testing, the next step is to manually ground the solenoid up to 20 times to see if it fails once during this test. As it heats up with operation, it may fail and will not allow the vacuum signal to go to the EGR valve.

The ECM grounds the solenoid for EGR operation by inputs from the MAP sensor, the sensors in the distributor, the throttle position sensor, and the coolant sensor. If the solenoid is not being turned on at all, check the ground wire from the solenoid all the way to the ECM. It is also important to verify lift sensor voltage all the way back to the ECM.

Note: When there is an EGR problem and the ECM senses that problem, it stops grounding the solenoid and stops EGR operation. Make sure the code is cleared from the ECM so it will try to operate the EGR solenoid.

When diagnosing Honda driveability problems, always check the EGR system. Block off the vacuum to see if the problem goes away. Usually the valve is not the problem - often it is a lean run condition or an EGR distribution problem with EGR going to one or two cylinders, rather than all four.

Certain 1990-93 Accords experience a misfire condition or hesitation warm at 1500 to 2000 rpm. When vacuum is removed from the EGR valve, the misfire or hesitation goes away. This is usually caused by plugged EGR ports in the intake manifold.

To correct, remove the brass plugs in the intake manifold and clean out the carbon. Honda offers a kit with replacement plugs so removal or replacement of the intake manifold will not be required.
 
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