need opinions on winter batteries

DeAcevedo45

Second Glance
Yesterday my DA gave me a scare. As im leaving work (-32 degrees F) the car wouldnt start, my automatic seatbelts rolled back strong though, which tells me the battery was still giving good juice to the car. However, every time I turned the key...nothing happened...no noise, no clicking, nothing...I have found that if I hold the key in that position my car will eventually crank and start. Whats the deal? That cant be normal.

Now, before this I just bought a new Duralast Battery with something like 600 Cold Crank Amps, I was contemplating on wether or not I should get the Duralast Gold model with 800 Cold Crank Amps. Autozone will let me upgrade, but what I wanted to know first was that if I should stick with Duralast brand or move on to another brand...if not, why is my car doing this?
 

JDMxDB8

Raceline USA
They have ones that come with metal jackets to protect against cold temperatures. They're better than Duralast, that's for sure.
 


kcombs

GS=goes slow
high end johnson controls batteries. (i.e. advance batteries,pep boys,interstate.)
 

kcombs

GS=goes slow
i could be a bad ground connection on the batt or frame.
the batt is prob not the issue.
 


DeAcevedo45

Second Glance
I dont know...these problems only started up once winter came into full swing...my car started up stonger than any other car Ive ever driven actually, around summer climates

what do I look for when checking for bad grounds?
 

kcombs

GS=goes slow
any loose bolts (on frame or block) batt terminals.
my old volvo had a loose ground terminal on he batt and it would do that (turn the key and nothing)
 

Backwoodz Tuner

New Member
Get a Optima Yellow top, they've been ran in antartic temps and death valley heat,well so they claim, but I got one and not once had a battery prob from it yet. There a lil mo spendy but think of it as a lil bling 4 your e-bay, lol.

Also searchin for bad grounds can be a bitch if you don't know where to look. Get a helms manual and find where all your cars grounds are , then check your car out. Also when you do find these grounds , take the bolts off and scratch the shit outta the paint that would be normally covered by the bolt when its been all the way threaded down . Also you don't gotta do this but I guess I'll jus throw it out there but yeah its kinda extreme , but if you go down to your local auto store pick up a can or tube of some Die Electric grease.. And add some of that shit on the threads of your ground bolts, that shit wil help make the best possible ground. It will keep corrosion from building up and will ensure a good ground .

Also maybe your ignition switch, or ignition harness comin off your ign. switch to your fuse panel are jus gettin wore out. I had an ignition switch go out on me and believe me it was the las thing I would a thought of. I totally went through my whole car , so far that I ended up takin my whole dash off to find nothin wrong, I did the most common probs checkin grounds, fuses, battery charge , swapped starter, then went to the extremes like checkin the harnesses with an ohms tester, swapped ignition coils and icm's, relays, ecu's, jus to find out bout a month later all it was , was the fuckin switch. U gotta remember these cars aint gettin any younger so little shit like that do go out over time. A guy with an old cvcc civic pointed me in that direction. I guess if you gotta bunch of stuff on your key ring that weighs a lot, can wear your tumblers out quicker causing them to wear out a lot faster than average. I kinda shrugged on the idea but hey, he was right. N-E Wayz
Good luck keep us posted
 
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