Just bought a 2001 GSR - Have Questions

[bman9625]

Hi, I just bought a 01 GSR and am new to the forum.

1st - I had a Viper alarm installed and it came with the factory immobilizer, do i still need to the main relay kill switch or is that just duplicating what the viper alarm does? FYI -The installer said the alarm disables the ignition.

2nd - I want to do the G3 Unlock Switch Bypass:

Here's what I understand, I cut the wire for the lock, the end closest to the lock module goes to pin "30"
the other end goes to pin "87"

Here's where I get confused "85" is the ground but in the diagram it looks like it is connected to the wire going to "87", if I'm just looking at it wrong, where do I connect the ground wire? just to anything metal?

Then the instructions say pin "86" is "tapped" into the 12v wire. So am I just exposing the wire of the 12v wire and connecting my extra 16-18 gauge wire to the opening and attaching the other end to "86"?

I saw the instructions for the hood latch bypass and they are great, will do that too.

Thanks in advance for any help!

 

[ZaWn]

:welcome:

-Z-

 

[djv1986]

85 and 86 are NOT directional one has to be power one has to be ground. Depending on the way it's trigger wether the switch is on positive or the ground side all is up to the owners choice. The 87 and 30 are internally connected when 85 and 86 see power and ground. Some relays that have 87a the 30 and 87a have continuity when the relay is off and when the relay is on it then interrupts the 87a-30 connection. I've never head of the g3 unlock think your talking about but I'm really good with electrical

 

[NemesisCBR]

ummm i dont know s*** about alarm wiring except how to complain when mine doesnt work. Welcome and GSR baby! Post some pictures you scrublet.

I dont know what this g3 unlock thing is either.... :what:

 

[djv1986]

I'm good with alarms for the most part and had a two way paging viper on my integra but it has nothing now. But soon to be the new smart start viper

 

[bman9625]

I cut this from the site "Clubintegra" I dont know why the pictures don't show up


Bringing up some inexpensive things to do to go great lengths to protect your car. One person in the thread brought up that another good step is to turn off the inside "unlock" functionality of the OEM doorlock switch. Thinking it was a good idea, I decided to do it to my car, and also document it if others were interested.

Let's start off by asking the question: "Why do this?". Well the answer is pretty simple. One of a thief's bag-o-tricks might be to use something like a bent-up coat hanger to reach the switch and give easy access to the inside of the car. So if the switch wasn't functional, this method of entry becomes a total non-issue.

"So why not simply unplug or remove the doorlock switches?". While that's certainly a super-easy and quick solution, you'd totally lose stock functionality of the doorlock system. I personally don't like to lose stuff I am used to, so I bypassed mine as I will display.

The end result with be:
(1) With the car "on", switch works as it rolled off the assembly line
(2) Car turned off: pressing unlock (up) on the switch does nothing
Let's get started!

Stuff needed (per side, you need to do driver AND passenger):

Bosch-style SPST Relay (Relays Explained!)
.250" female spade connectors
Some 16-18 gauge is wire
Method to connect wires (i used some crimp caps and t-taps)



All right, let's map out what two OEM wires we need to use


The Green/Red (located in the plug for the door lock switch) wire in the lock switch throws a (-) signal to unlock the doors

The White/Yel (located in the wires for the window switch) goes to the Window switch shows 12v, and this is the important part, only when the key is "ON"



Here's the wires and positions of the relay used

- Pin 86: Tapped into the 12v feeding the Power Window Switch (White/Yellow in above picture)

- Pins 87 and 85: The switch side of the cut unlock wire

- Pin 30: the car side of the cut unlock wire

- Pin 87a: connected to nothing



After all is said and done, this is the new setup for the way the OEM switch acts


Key Off:
Relay gets no power, stock unlock wire is "cut" through the relay, it doesn't work

Key "ON":
Relay is energized, stock unlock wire is connected through relay, so it works as normal


Common question since this article has been in place is: "how does this affect my keyless-entry/alarm system's unlock by remote functionality?"

Well, it doesn't.... there is a Doorlock Control Module inside the driver's door, and when this box receives the signal to unlock the door, it sends out the proper power flow to the actual door lock motors to physically unlock

The switches inside the cabin are "upstream" from this, so if the the bypass demonstrated in this article is done near the switch, then it will not affect the alarm's functionality. I drew up this diagram to help show what I mean



So hopefully from this pic, you can see breaking the wire at the switches still allows the alarm/keyless-entry to send a (-) signal to the Doorlock Control module.....

NOTE: the power wire you need to tap into on the passenger side is blue/black.

Also.. a great place to mount the relay is at the bottom screw that holds the door handle on, located around the middle of the door. This is a great way to avoid drilling new holes in the door. (The location I'm speaking of is on Page 3, bottom picture, right under where it says in yellow: "Black/Red OEM Unlock Wire (Pins 87 and 30)".

 

[ixcocoyxi]

id much rather take out the switch completely. it presents more to a thief that he cant even try to get at the switch and risk messing up the anything around the door or window.

what about the hole from the switch?

search on craigslist or ebay for some RS door handle trims.

Sent from my Glade Air Freshener using Tapatalk.

 

[djv1986]

I would wire it backwards in a sense have the relay interrupt the signal rathe then complete the circuit.