Integra Turbo - Clearances and Durability

[Antx]

Hi

this is my config :

b18a1 block
darton spec MID sleeves 81 mm
cp pistons 9:1
eagle rods
acl race bearings

arp head bolts

b18c1 head (stock)
b18c1 intake manifold
b18c1 throttle body
obd1 distributor and ignition components
ramhorn turbo manifold
t3/t4 turbo (a/r 60)
p28 ECU with Neptune RTP
rc 750cc injectors

upgraded 3-core aluminum radiator
HKS Intercooler
walbro fuel pump
aem adjustable fuel regulator
p72 oil pump
p72 water pump
3" downpipe & exhaust system with HKS muffler
-----------------------------------------------------------

we came to the step of tuning the car.

you know stock cars are GOOD for at least 100.000 miles or more without any problems even they are turbocharged - as long as they are serviced good.

for my car also to be durable like this : what is your POWER advise ?
how much pressure for this setup is good for long years ?

I also want a good top speed durability. even I drive the car at 5th speed for a long time like 10 minutes, I don't want any risks ..

Regards

 

[Antx]

And the rod and main bearing clearances..

Do they need to be "stock" or different because of the turbo ?

 

[IntegraLS-T]

Clearances are going to depend on how much power you are looking to get out of the motor and if and how often you are going to be pulling the engine apart to be refreshed. With a good tune your setup can last a very long time but I wouldn't expect to never have to open up the block to do some refreshing inside. The bottom end seems like it should be good for over 500 whp. Do a search on honda-tech for bearing clearances there is a thread that has what many people are doing and what whp they are running or shooting for.

 

[DaddyBuiltRacing]

Heres my bearing clearences and i am shooting for 700+

Main Journal OD 2.1650 2.1650 2.1650 2.1649 2.1650
Vert Clear .0015 .0015 .0016 .0015 .0015


I would be careful with those eagle rods, I have seen 2 sets snap right around the 400whp mark, but i'm sure you'll hear that "they are rated to xxx hp", theres a reason they are $275bucks.

I do agree with the guy above me about preparing at some point to have to open the motor back up to re-freshen everything. Alot of people seem to think that "built' motors are going to last forever, while having their brains beat out lol.

 

[Antx]

:9
well, I think of setting up 300 whp maybe then. I don't want any risks. I live in Turkey and all of the parts are coming from ebay, and to re-setup everything I need at least 1 month or more. And the prices are higher of course then they ae in USA.

What do you think if I say that 300 whp is enough for me ?
Actually, I don't want to refresh the inside of the motor every 3000 miles.

 

[DaddyBuiltRacing]

300whp is plenty for most people, especially for a street driven car. I'm not saying all eagles will break at the hp level, just stating what I have seen personally twice now.

 

[Antx]

well, actually an integra with 300 whp on street wheels and tires is already so much.

for eagles, you're right. I heard some eagles went bad at about 500 hp, and this is already known around I guess.

actually, what I need is a bomb proof car.

 

[IntegraLS-T]

Im not trying to troll here, I agree that there have been sets of eagles that have failed at lower than expected hp, but on the same note there have been eagles that have taken more than expected. My old integra made around 400whp on 28psi, about 600whp on spray, on eagle h beam rods. The end of that motor was bent wrist-pins, (who sells pistons good for over 700hp with wrist-pins only good to 400?) so if you have to option I would do the upgraded wrist pins now then you wont be regretting it later if you are going to really utilize that sleeved block.

 

[Antx]

hmm thank you for the advise.

the scenario is : with this car at 300whp, I drive at max boost at 5th gear for 30 minutes.

will it fail you think ?

 

[DaddyBuiltRacing]

Not trying to be a dick to LST but who only makes 400whp on 28psi? What turbo was you using a t25? I could see that on a D series, but even then thats not a lot of power for that much boost. Even on a straight LS thats a horrible sounding setup. Sounds to me like the motor/turbo setup wasn't a very efficient one. I have seen Eagles work in setups making over 500 as well, but to me, its like playing with fire. They are chinese made rods that cost 275 brand new, again there is a reason they are so cheap. You get what you pay for

Oh and BTW call CP and ask them what they rate their standard wrist pins to...I did and was told they rate them at 600hp, but that they are under rated. Same thing DSS does with their axles. What do they know though, they just make the shit lol. the upgraded wrist pins are rated for 250hp per cylinder, let me add that up for you, thats 1000hp. I dont know many honda's making 1000hp outside of Miller from NRG Tech and a few big boys in the Outlaw classes

 

[IntegraLS-T]

Turbo was a gt3071R which is rated to make 450hp, so it was a super efficient setup, no sense in using a 700hp turbo to make 400hp, car spooled very quickly and made lots of usable power under the curve. This was on a 2.0 9 to1 compression stock b16 head gsr cams. The pistons I had at that time were a set of cp's I called cp and asked about it, they told me that at the 28psi and 400hp i was fine but at the 600 level the wrist-pins were not rated for that and I should have purchased the upgraded ones. All I can go off of is what they told me, that could be wrong idk. I also think that it is worth it to mention that was on a superflow dyno which from everything I have read reads lower than most other dynos.

and to the op, if you are saying your going to run the car at max boost as in full throttle for 30min at a time, in 5th gear, it will not last thats just too much heat. If your saying that you will drive the car in 5th gear for 30min at a time at that power level you will be fine as long as the tune is on.

 

[DaddyBuiltRacing]

Edited cause I mis-read his turbo selection!

As for the wrist pins, there are several guys making 700-800whp without the upgraded pins. Not trying to stat a pissing match with you, just trying to get correct info on this website, cause there is a lot of bad info on here

 

[IntegraLS-T]

http://www.atpturbo.com/root/turboinfo/gtlineup/gtlineup.htm it would help if you looked at the correct turbo, I said Gt3071r, and it is rated up to 450. Meth injection is going to aid in the extra hp vs a conservative 105 octane tune also. I took a pump gas tune and turned up the boost for a local dyno day, timing was still what you would run on pump, just more boost with afr corrected. Also most say there is a 8 to 10% difference in dynojet numbers and super-flow numbers, with super-flow being the lower. It really doesn't matter if you had a car with the same turbo anyways a dyno is a tuning tool not an accurate way to compare hp unless its the same dyno, same conditions. And in reality efficiency has little to do with max hp made anyways, so to say my setup was not very efficient based off of peak numbers is a joke. Efficiency comes from the area under the curve not peak numbers. My current setup is more efficient than my old setup but makes less peak hp and is faster in auto-x, and is the same or faster in a drag race. As for the wrist pins I can only give my experience and what I was told by the guy at CP over 3 years ago. To say that the info I'm giving is bad would be the same as saying your experience with eagle rods is also bad info. I wasn't saying this would be the case all the time I was simply giving my experience and how I came to that conclusion.

 

[DaddyBuiltRacing]

my bad mis-read the turbo, appologies!

 

[Antx]

for the "heat", is it the EGT or oil temp or ECT ?

and to the op, if you are saying your going to run the car at max boost as in full throttle for 30min at a time, in 5th gear, it will not last thats just too much heat. If your saying that you will drive the car in 5th gear for 30min at a time at that power level you will be fine as long as the tune is on.