Integra Syncro problems

[trentoncc24]

My transmission has been grinding over the past year or so (since I bought and swaped out my JDM engine) and I was wondering if syncro problems were a common problem in integras. I don't really know why it would be grinding like it is, the engine looked pretty new when i got it. Are syncro problems more common on integras than most other manual transmission cars? Or was I just really unlucky?

 

[PogKai]

I'd say unlucky.. When you abuse of your tranny that's what will happen.

 

[trentoncc24]

Do you mean abuse it as in clutchless shifting? Or do you mean by shifting in high RPMS?

 

[Kuchtaboy]

Both of my last 2 DA's have had syncro problems. Nothing real bad, just had to wait for it before i could let the clutch out, and on this one i have to double clutch 5th

 

[trentoncc24]

Well thats pretty bad I'd say, if I'm spending all this money on a tranny shouldn't it at least work right?

 

[trentoncc24]

If I buy a new tranny what should I do to keep the syncros from going out? I see some cars that have less than 80,000 miles on them's syncrhos going bad, and then some last over 200,000 miles with no syncrho problems. What causes the problems and what can I do to prevent it if I get a new tranny? Thanks

 

[97gsrjames]

If I buy a new tranny what should I do to keep the syncros from going out? I see some cars that have less than 80,000 miles on them's syncrhos going bad, and then some last over 200,000 miles with no syncrho problems. What causes the problems and what can I do to prevent it if I get a new tranny? Thanks

its about the driver i'd say. if you're a good driver and shift well, then synchros wont go bad.

When you "abuse" your tranny, you shift ay high rpms without double clutching the car making the synchros work harder, and more prone to fail.

synchros havent always been around. my uncle has a paving buisness, and owns a dump truck that has NO synchros. and with that you have to double clutch or it wont even shift. those arnt as bad as they sound though. the engine revs very slowly so its easy to catch for the most part.

something you can do is put GM synchros mesh in the tranny. I realize honda makes something similar, but i've had better luck with the GM stuff so i recomended it.

 

[trentoncc24]

So let me get this straight, your SUPPOSED to double clutch when you shift? I was never taught that. Isn't that where you press in clutch, shift from first to neutral, let off clutch, then press clutch again, then shift to second, and pattern that way through all 5 gears? Thats crazy, your supposed to do that? Thats big time slowing down isn't it? I thought that was just for like mac trucks and stuff? Have I been doing it wrong all along? I just push the clutch in and shift to a higher gear, thats how i was taught, and how everyone I know drives a stick.

 

[97gsrjames]

this is the process i call double clutching

1. know the rpm you want to shift at
2. when you reach that rpm press in clutch
3. use the throttle to closely match the rpm you pressed in the cluth at
4. shift to the next gear (without releasing the clutch YET)
5. let the clutch out when your at or near your previos gears rpms.

synchro(nize) << ever notice that? the purpose of a synchro is to synchronize the revolutions of another gear for a smooth shift.

you dont have to double cluth every shift. its not necessary for every day driving at low rpms, however when you're shifting at higher rpms, its VERY good idea.

hope that helped

 

[trentoncc24]

I understand, I think. I didn't know that was called double clutching though, I thought double clutching was what I refered to, which would make sense as to why its called "double clutching" I dunno, yall know more than I do, so I'll talk your word for it. Is there a way to tell if your doing this process right? Does the car shift smoother or anything? Actually, I'm not sure, but say you were to shift at 7500 rpm, so you would press the clutch and hold it then hit the gas to keep it at 7500 and while your holding the rpms at 7500 and holding the clutch in then shift to the next gear. It seems that this would cause more strain on the syncros because the synros would have to get the next gear spinning to match the 7500 rpms. Thats why I thought lighter flywheels put less strain on your syncros, because the revs go down faster when you press the clutch in to shift (less rpms to speed the next gear up to, the less strain, at least I thought), and also, if you do have a tranny that has syncro grinds, and you were to "double clutch" at 7500 it would still grind, however if you were to take it up to 7500, press the clutch in, and let the rpms go down some before you actually shift it won't grind. I don't know if I'm right or wrong or what, I'm just confused.

 

[97gsrjames]

here watch this. im sure it will halp more then my rabble

as you can see in the video he prepares to engage the clutch, but keeps his foot slightly on the gas to keep the rpms from dropping too much, so he doesnt loss too much power through the gears.

on down shifts around corners you'll notice that he slips the car into neutral, brakes into the corner, and when leaving he'll throttle brfore shifting.

 

[trentoncc24]

I understand how that will make you faster, but I don't understand how it would help your syncros last longer.

 

[97gsrjames]

alright the purpose of a synchro is to syncronize two gears so they're spinning at the same speed to prevent grinding, right? alright well when you "double clutch" the car, the synchros have less to no work to do, you did most of it. you matched the rpms of the last gear so the gears are already preped to shift.

 

[trentoncc24]

Well whats the best tranny fluid to use? I heard Syncromesh Friction modified was good for people who's syncros are going out, but what if I buy a tranny that still has good syncros, is syncrhomesh still the best choice? I want the best there is, i don't care if its 25 bucks a quart, this tranny changin crap is annoying, I want my next one to last. If the trannys were cheaper it wouldn't be near as bad. Also, I heard you had to have a pump to put in the transmisson fluid, however when I changed mine all I did was unscrew the bottom plug, let it drain out, screw the bottom plug back on, then remove the top filler plug, and pushed a hose in it, and poured the tranny fluid down the hose, I don't understand a need for a pump when you can do that.

 

[97gsrjames]

Well whats the best tranny fluid to use? I heard Syncromesh Friction modified was good for people who's syncros are going out, but what if I buy a tranny that still has good syncros, is syncrhomesh still the best choice? I want the best there is, i don't care if its 25 bucks a quart, this tranny changin crap is annoying, I want my next one to last. If the trannys were cheaper it wouldn't be near as bad. Also, I heard you had to have a pump to put in the transmisson fluid, however when I changed mine all I did was unscrew the bottom plug, let it drain out, screw the bottom plug back on, then remove the top filler plug, and pushed a hose in it, and poured the tranny fluid down the hose, I don't understand a need for a pump when you can do that.

thats all you need to do. whos the dumbass who told you that you needed a pump? he was probably refering to the one he needs for his wanker :shock: jk jk. Anyways, IMO GM Synchromesh is the best stuff out. Honda has they own version of it but in not sure what its called, and i cant recomend it because i've never used it. The GM Synchromesh works wonders! I'd recomend you use that. I believe its something like $20 a quart and you'll need 2 - 2-/1/2.