Head Gasket plus tips

[pearl_white]

Hello!

I have a 1993 Acura Integra (duh!) which about four months ago crapped out on me. What had happened was I took my car out for a normal sunday cruise around Atlanta and was thankfully maybe a mile from home when the engine went from 45 to shut down/stall. It made a really really loud popping noise before it shut off. Mind you thankfully no one was behind me on the double lane road I was able to pull into a parking lot and stop.

Opening the hood during that time after I came to a stop with engine off there was no signs of smoke or of over heating. I thought for some reason it had stalled. I tried to fire it back up, it kept pulling but then would make a POP POP POP sound and just didnt seem to turn over and run after this!. I noted a smell of gas and black/blue smoke.

I decided to further inspect the engine only to find in the spark plug holders on top of the engine were full of oil (I nick named it a "MILK SHAKE"). I was clueless at this point and called a friend to do red-neck towing back to my house.

My two door sat in my drive way now for I would say close to four months. Tonight (1-16-2012) I had the owner (whom was the owner of the car before I got it) come over to look at the engine. We spent maybe 30 minutes going over everything. He did note that the radiator was bone dry and that the reserve for the radiator was also bone dry. He stated it could have over heated but I would have noticed the car running hot (which it didnt when it shut off). He checked the spark plug sections and noted they were full of oil which to his mind was the sign of a blown head gasket.

Now my question: (for the tl;dr)
Is it worth fixing?
Is it a cheap fix for the head gasket?
Can I pick up a new and or used radiator for a good price?


I can and will be keeping this thread through out my trials and errors with the car. I should be able to provide digital camera pictures here shortly of everything currently with the engine.

Thanks everyone. I apologize if this is noob. I just want to know if I should keep the car or scrap it!.

 

[emd513]

Yes,yes, and yes. Lol. Headgasket is about 50 bucks. You will need to ha e the head shaved to make sure there is no warping g. Also you need to check the bottom end, which might end up needing a rebuild. Even then its always worth rebuilding our cars. If no metal shaving in oil pan and very minimal water in oil you might be able to get some more miles out of the bottom. Personally if its been down 4 months and you don't need it very soon, rebuild.

 

[covert_Con]

It's only expensive when you take it to a shop, they charge 5-600 for the headgasket, at least in my area. It's definetley worth fixing.

 

[Prozon]

The oil in your spark plug tubes has nothing to do with a head gasket. That is simply the grommets on the valve cover leaking. They're called the spark plug tube seals, and will come in a valve cover gasket kit.

As for the engine dying and not running-
It could have broken the timing belt, skipped time, ect ect..

If you do have milky oil, it is a sign of a blown head gasket, and the missing coolant is just another sign. Pull your valve cover off, and make sure your timing belt is intact and your cam gears and crankshaft all line up with the timing marks. You can easily find information on it if you google it. If everything lines up, diagnose it as a normal "no start."

However- leading to the conclusion that your head gasket is indeed bad, here is a write-up I made for changing the gasket. I advise changing the head gasket, buying new head bolts ( or ARP head studs ), a valve cover gasket kit and a new timing belt and water pump. (At very least.)

http://www.clubintegra.com/board/showthread.php?t=69825


Good luck. :thumbs up

 

[pearl_white]

Thanks everyone with the kind replies so far.

I was just wondering also price wise as total for this project. Do you all suspect it to run above 1,000?. I dont want to go over a grand for fixing it sadly. I am just a college kid with a tight budget.

I like the feed back so far. I will look into the timing issue also as I am sure that is probably also something that could have caused it. I am sure it hasnt been checked in a while.

By asking to check "THE BOTTOM END" I am sure you assume to check below as well. I just wanted to make sure.

I will provide pictures hopefully soon.

Thanks again everyone for replying as I am truly lost on what to do!.

Prozon great guide! I will be using that for sure when it comes time. I am figuring out cost now.

 

[covert_Con]

That price will likely be just if you take it to a shop, it could be as cheap as 100$ depending on where you look, and if you already have the tools.

 

[Prozon]

Total cost kind of depends on your tool set. If you have to go buy or rent tools, it might end up costing you more.

$50-60: Head Gasket @ Autozone, O'Rileys, ect.
$140-150: ARP head studs. (You can probably buy head bolts for less from a dealer.)
$50 to get your head checked out and machined.
$250-400 if you need to have it rebuilt.
$15 valve cover gasket set
$10-20 Oil.
$5-15 Oil filter.
$10-20 Coolant.
$10 thermostat
$100 timing belt and water pump kit.

Just a basic add-up. Numbers may be a little off, depending where you go for everything. Machine shop prices can vary a lot, so call around to find the best one.

Shops tend to charge $1200+ in my area for a basic head gasket job. If you want to save yourself some cash, you can usually pick up a stock B18a1 and B18b1 head for $50-150 in good condition. vTec heads cost a bit more.

 

[pearl_white]

Thanks for the feed back.

Should I go OEM for parts?.

What used partes vendors do you all suggest for a good budget/price?.

I am starting work next month after I get my taxes back!.

Thanks everyone so far for the input.

 

[Prozon]

I buy all my replacement parts from RockAuto.com.

I've never gone to a Honda/Acura dealer for any replacement parts. Some people swear by them, but I prefer to get it where it's most cost effective. The people that tell you "Only OEM." just say it because they hear everyone else say it. Most of the people I hear saying only go OEM, haven't actually run another product to have an issue with. The "ONLY" case I hear people running parts and them breaking were CV axles from Autozone- and I've ran autozone axles in the past and never had issues.. in fact, they're from numerous different brands, so saying "Autozone axles" is kind of a stupid statement, lol.

/Rant..

Anywho! Yeah, RockAuto.com has been good to me.

 

[pearl_white]

Thanks again Prozon. I think I might add you to my AIM list. You have helped me out a bit and thank you.

I will be ordering parts in a couple of weeks. I plan on working around march/april in my garage and then on nicer days out side. I have all sorts of tools laying around and its time to put them to use.

I guess from here on this will be my rebuild journal.

I plan on:

Head Gasket Fix
New radiator install
Sound system Install

and for the pros (I cant do this)

New exhaust
New tint on windows


I should have pictures during my install of said parts above. I plan on making this a little journal.

I shall be back in a couple of weeks to check in before I order the bulk of my parts.

Thanks again Prozon.:lol:

 

[Prozon]

You should make a build thread in the build section. Post up pictures and what not!

Oh, and honestly i'm not on AIM all that much, but if you PM me here or find me on FB I'm always available lol.

 

[TeggyLeo]

I was in your same situation. My first teggy had gasket blew. I'm not too good at engine timing so I figured I would take it to a honda/Acura specialty shop. They were going to charge me $1200. I figured I could get another teggy for that price and use my old one for parts. Lucky for me I found one in way better condition than mine with the timing, head gasket, water pump and engine rebuilt. The guy had to sale it quick cuz he needed the money. I just had to put my seats and carpet and a few minor things in it from my car. Got the car for $1000. I saved $200 getting another teggy lol.


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