Gus Quick

Gus Quick

New Member
1.8L RS 4 Door - Interior Fan/Blower has intermittent On/Off problem - A/C Light on switch will always work and the A/C IS working (just can't blow it out) - The Fan stays Off majority of the time, but i can be sitting at a stoplight and the Fan will come on, but only for about 2 to 5 minutes then Off again for days/weeks - Banging on dash does nothing - It used to be it would go Off for a few seconds, then come back on and stay on for months or years - Now its just the opposite - And, does NOT fade on/off; its all totally abrupt when it occurs and it does NOT come On then Off then On sporadically (like a short might do) It's just On, then just OFF - Very puzzling, Hep me!


THIS is what I FIRST wrote awhile back about this Problem (Just to give ya more to read!)
For the past 6-8 years my Interior Blower would shut completely Off, then I'd toggle the Recirculate/Fresh air lever back and forth and it would come right back On - This happened maybe 3-5 times a year - Now, the Blower does Not work at all (at the time I wrote this = see above now) - The A/C Green push-on Light does light and I hear the A/C compressor (which knocks down the RPM's when on), but the blower does not blow nor make a sound at all - I have checked all Fuses under the dash And hood as well as the 40A Heater Screw-out Fuse and the circuits are all closed so, they are good - Help very much appreciated


************* HERE IS THE FIX ************* The A/C condensation, that drips occasionally on the passenger side, eventually RUSTED OUT THE FAN CONNECTOR located behind the foot panel - Very easy to get to - It was intermittent b/c of road vibration and then finally, became totally disconnected - Scratched off the rust, reconnected and taped up - Yea!
 
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g6qwerty

Member
I also had a problem where my Blower stopped working turns out it was a bad ignition switch contact that did that.
 

Gus Quick

New Member
1.) Could a Fan Blower Motor have a semi-short in it 2.) If a blower resistor breaks, i can't imagine it would ever reconnect again (like a short might) 3.) There is a 40A "Fuse" on left kick panel that tested continuous (aka good) = That couldn't short out?
 


djzachtyler

Looking for my next Teg..
Interior control unit.... located behind the fuse box in the driver side footwell off to the side... small grey box. this controls many of the functions you are having issues with and is a known issue with 90-93 integras

not to be confused with the ICM - ignition control module located inside the distributor
 

Gus Quick

New Member
Thanks djz - Sounds like you don't think it's my Blower Motor or Resistor, right? Is the ICU a stand alone box or do i need to remove fuse box to get to it? Also, do you know how i can test this module to see if it's defective?
 
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djzachtyler

Looking for my next Teg..
you have to pull the fuse box out to get to the ICU... once you have the ICU out, you can pry the casing open and look at the circuit board.

there are some threads at G2IC that really do a great job of explaining what to look for, but if anything looks dark brown or slightly fried inside the ICU then you can chalk that up as your issue.

I mean it could also be the 2 items you suspect as well, but checking out the ICU is far easier than trying to get that motor out.
 

Gus Quick

New Member
Problem FIXED! Turns out it was a Burned/Corroded BLU/WHT Wire = Scraped off to make better contact, Crimped down the Plug-in "curls" on the plug, plugged back in and All Working - My guess as to what caused it is; that during the Summer when I run the A/C and I turn car off, it Drizzles Water from the Condenser down on the passenger side Floor mat and I think it made its 1st stop at that Blower Motor SWITCH; Corroding and Shorting it - So, check the 2-conductor plug first!
 
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