There are screws on the underside and bottom of the cluster trim. After that you need to remove the knobs for the AC/temp control... you just pull them off. Then the piece with the climate control marks comes off. Under there are like 4 screws holding the trim in, the smaller screws hold the climate control to the dashboard. There's also this trapezoidal-grooved piece to the right of the climate buttons, remove that and there's a screw to take out. What I do after that is take a flathead, and put it between the trim and dash slowly prying out the trim and using my fingers to pull it out slowly (be careful/gentle here the trim is thin plastic and snaps very easily!).
There are then another 4 screws that hold the cluster to the dashboard, remove those and pull the cluster out a little. There are 3 plugs to unplug, and the speedo cable to unplug. Speedo takes more time to do because there's a clip that holds it in (imagine the metal clip on pins, it's similar to that). Then you just twist the base of the bulbs to remove them and replace them with the new ones.