Buying a turbo finally

[mygsr's]

So im in the midst of working out a deal with a friend selling his turbo kit that was on his boosted ls. Im boosing my gsr motor. Its my daily and I'm getting a good tune done once im done installing everything. Im looking to get around 300 to the wheels. I am buying arp head studs, and a full valve train upgrade(springs, retainers, valves, etc.) I have all the parts needed to run the turbo but are there any other parts I would need to protect my engine. For instance new pistons and rods, and would anyone suggest boring the engine out at all.

 

[Prozon]

You could run 300hp on a stock block all day long with a good tune.

If you want to be safe, upgrade to forged internals. (Rods and pistons.)
Head work really isn't needed at all.

 

[mygsr's]

Also I realize 300 to the wheels isn't that huge of an amount, but how much of a drastic difference is this going to make. I mean I'm getting some really sticky tires too. Im only 17 so I've never been to the track, but assuming I'm an average driver what would you gues my quarter mile time would be.

 

[natt2000]

depending on weight upper 12's lower 13's? just a guess though!

 

[thenoxus1]

Uh 300 in a fwd is huge unless you're running slicks. Anything over that and you aren't getting much traction. Especially if you haven't gotten behind the wheel before. You know I got you for parts. Uh get arp etc, but for 300 you can boost a stock engine. Just upgrade injectors and such. You can go with a low comp setup if you really wanna spend money. It's jumpingfrom a 3-4k build to a 10k build when you upgrade internals. For tuning, se evans tuning. Tell him I sent you lol. Jeff is a great guy.

 

[mygsr's]

Uh 300 in a fwd is huge unless you're running slicks. Anything over that and you aren't getting much traction. Especially if you haven't gotten behind the wheel before. You know I got you for parts. Uh get arp etc, but for 300 you can boost a stock engine. Just upgrade injectors and such. You can go with a low comp setup if you really wanna spend money. It's jumpingfrom a 3-4k build to a 10k build when you upgrade internals. For tuning, se evans tuning. Tell him I sent you lol. Jeff is a great guy.

Haha I already talked to Jeff. He is the man when it comes to tuning. And im not sure if I want to buy a set of slicks for the 2 or 3 times I take it to the track. Plus I want to circuit race it if I can ever find a track around here.

 

[Prozon]

Mitch, I don't think you'll jump 6k throwing forged in there lol.

MYGSR- What is your name? I need something to address you by.

Do not bore it. If you're upgrading internals stick to the stock bore. The more you bore it, the thinner the cylinder walls will be. If you are sleeving it you can get oversized pistons, but I would leave it to stock bore if you're getting new pistons.

300hp is a HUGE jump. Think about it like this, it's double the output of your motor! You will notice it's a lot easier to spin your tires too. My turbo is at full boost at 4k and if it's raining I can pretty much spin the tires in any gear lol.

 

[blackviper]

Uh 300 in a fwd is huge unless you're running slicks. Anything over that and you aren't getting much traction. Especially if you haven't gotten behind the wheel before. You know I got you for parts. Uh get arp etc, but for 300 you can boost a stock engine. Just upgrade injectors and such. You can go with a low comp setup if you really wanna spend money. It's jumpingfrom a 3-4k build to a 10k build when you upgrade internals. For tuning, se evans tuning. Tell him I sent you lol. Jeff is a great guy.

So theoretically if i didnt want to turbo, but wanted to boost just on stock b18b1, what are some things needed to be done? I was going to turbo myself but if i can easily hit in b/w 200-300hp range just by modifying the stock motor and keeping it reliable then id go that route. or turbo, havent decided yet.

 

[thenoxus1]

Boost is the same as turbo. I'll pm you back today, just saw it.

Kris,

Do you wanna see my 400whp plan? With parts and labor you're easily at 10k. I'm assuming he's not going to be machining it on his own, you gotta remember 2k in labor. Plus hondata s300 because that's all Jeff tunes on anymore. Plus the dyno tune haha.

 

[hgocasca]

It's a pricy road to go down, much cheaper than all motor though, I don't think you can even get 200whp on an ls unless you boost or bottle feed it

 

[thenoxus1]

It's a pricy road to go down, much cheaper than all motor though, I don't think you can even get 200whp on an ls unless you boost or bottle feed it

I'm doing a light N/A build on my GSR, and goal is around 175whp.

Boost is better cost per power amount, but can be a lot more intensive.

 

[hgocasca]

Agreed, way better bang for your buck. I'm a fan of beastly all motor builds cuz I hate boost lag, and enjoy my low end. But if your goal is speed, then boost is your friend

 

[AlexD]

do not boost your motor if youre planning on road racing unless you have some nice change in your pocket.

Youll find out the weak points of your build very fast, shit starts to melt, and things get pricey.

 

[Prozon]

Mitch- I thought you meant going from a stock motor boosted to forged internals. I thought you were saying to put forged rods and pistons in your motor, it would cost $6,00 more. lol.

 

[mygsr's]

Prozon my name is Josh. And as far the engine goes. Im thinking rods, pistons, headstuds, and valve train upgrade. Sound secure enough for 300 to the wheels. I know i could keep it bone stock with no forged internals but I want it to last and be nice as well.