B18C1 Swapped Hatch - Burning Oil Question

GSR_ITR_BOIB

Member
I have a 1995 Honda Civic CX hatch. It has a 1999 B18C1 swap in it.

It's been burning oil for some time now. Originally, I guessed that it was valve seals, so I took the head off, broke it down, had it cleaned, cleaned all of the valves, made sure no valves were bent, re-lapped the valves, replaced the valve seals, and adjusted the valves. The motor runs super smooth and doesn't have any ticking noises or anything, but it still burns oil.

I notice the blue smoke coming out of the exhaust mostly on deceleration, when I'm downshifting. I also notice it sometimes when I'm being easy on the car at very little throttle. Very rarely do I notice it when I'm hammering on it.

I did a compression test, right after driving the car, so it was at operating temperature. I had a solid 220 PSI across the board.

I also did a leak down test. Cylinder 1 was 27.5%. Cylinder 2 was 9%, which I'm not too worried about. Cylinder 3 was also 27.5%. Cylinder 4 was 5%, which I'm also not too worried about.

In cylinders 1 and 3, the air was leaking out of the throttle body, indicating that the intake valves on those cylinders are not sealing properly.

From what I was told, the B18C1 swap has almost 180k miles on it.

From what it looks like to me, signs seem to be pointing towards the valve guides. Am I making a good assumption? Any input is appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

- DJ
 

Theasian

New Member
Do you get any noticeable oil burn leaving a light or any on first start up. Smoke puff on decel high vacume is a sign of bad valve seals or valve guides. Since you've replace the seals the guides are where I'd look at.

Did you happen to do a wet leak down test. Me personally I wouldnt be to concerned with those numbers that you got for a engine with that many miles on original rings
 

Theasian

New Member
Same as a wet compression test. add about a table spoon worth of oil.

If i were you were you i would make sure the pcv system in functioning properly. But like i said your prolly looking at worn valve guides as the cause
 


GSR_ITR_BOIB

Member
I'm hoping it's the guides, because now that I think about it, there was a time that I swapped another GSR head on the block and it still seemed to burn.
 

GSR_ITR_BOIB

Member
Muckman said:
Its absolutely the valve guides. Youll need a valve job and new seals too.
Click to expand...
That sounded very confident! Glad I actually got an answer like that. And I know I'll need a valve job and new seals - I was already planning on it. Just sucks that I have to rip apart the head again and redo pretty much what I just did.

Thanks for the response though, looks like I'll be getting to it tomorrow!
 


Muckman

Not a M0derator
Yup. pretty much all high mileage heads have the same problems with the guides. They wear out and the valves wobble causing the valve seals to leak from the top. If its really bad the valve face gets beaten out of round too. Needs a full rebuild this time.

Would be a great time for upgraded valves and springs too!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top