b18a1 oil leak

elstraitjacket

New Member
hey guys...

my 92 gs has a pretty nasty oil leak. i just had my oil pan gasket replaced, but apparently that did not solve the problem because there is oil all over the top of the oil pan and on surrounding areas under the car. my neighbor who replaced the OPG for me had the car on a lift and pointed out where the leak was coming from. he pointed a screwdriver to a spot on the crank side and sure enough i did see oil coming out of there. i think he said it was the oil pump seal, but honestly this dude's english is not very good. does this sound like the right problem...am i an a**hole for criticizing my neighbor's english?

also, i'm not awesome with cars, but i can do stuff (adjust valves, brake pads, axles, check compression, etc.), is this a job that i could possibly do?

thanks again guys...
 

mirrorimg

Well-Known Member
The actual oil pump is on the edge of the engine block. I dont believe there is a gasket that is between it and the block.
The oil seal ring is cheap, but I think you need to take the crank pulley, timing belt cover, timing belt, and timing belt sprocket before you can access the ring. It definitely has a difficulty rating higher than that of the typical garage mechanic, but as long as you do some research you should be able to handle it.
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/jsp/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=INTEGRA&catcgry2=1992&catcgry3=3DR+GS&catcgry5=OIL%2BPUMP-OIL%2BSTRAINER&ListAll=All&vinsrch=no
 

elstraitjacket

New Member
ok, so would the oil seal be the part labeled 20 in the parts fiche that you linked me? if that's the part, do you have to remove the oil pump or just the crank pulley, timing belt sprocket, etc.?
 


mirrorimg

Well-Known Member
Yes it is number 20. You just need to gain access to it, not fully remove it. Unfortunately there is a lot in the way. The hole is actually where the crankshaft extends, which has a sprocket attached for the timing belt. That is under the timing belt cover. Outside the timing belt cover is the crankshaft pulley with your accessory belts (which need to be loosened and taken off of the pulley.

The thing that makes this job difficult is having to re-set the timing when your done, or if you are careful, keeping the timing in the exact place during the entire job.
 

elstraitjacket

New Member
ok, this sounds involved yet doable. the main problem is finding time, as this is my only ride. i figure if i do this job i may as well replace all the belts...is there anything else i should do while i'm in there?
 

mirrorimg

Well-Known Member
When you are replacing this, there really isnt any access to changing any typical items, just the belts. The pulley and sprocket should be fine. You do need a special tool to loosen the pulley bolt though. I actually bought one, and the new pulley I have doesnt have the same design. It looks like this.



This will allow you to hold the crank pulley in place (otherwise the entire rotating assemble will spin) while you break the bolt free.
 


SpooledupRacing

Banned
OK.. everyone.. stop!!!!

20 is the front crank seal.. not oil pump seal/o-ring

pull off the belts and the harmonic balancer and the crank seal sits behind that.. pry it out and drive the new one in.. mediocre job and the seal is CHEAP!
 

elstraitjacket

New Member
ok. so i need a tool to hold the pulley while i break the bolt...can i use a socket to drive the new seal in?

how long do you guys think this job will take?
 

BrokenTalon27

W.F.O
elstraitjacket said:
ok. so i need a tool to hold the pulley while i break the bolt...can i use a socket to drive the new seal in?

how long do you guys think this job will take?
Click to expand...
That depends on your level of expertise. It might take you four hours, it might take 45 minutes. This is essentially a timing belt service int hat you have to take everything apart to get to it but you're only replacing the oil pump seal(which is part of the service at a shop).
 

steve_m6

New Member
i got a leak coming from the oil pump assembly, located directly in front of the alternator. i tried j-b weld but that didnt work so what is my next step?
 
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