All Motor Vs Turbo?

96IntegraRS

New Member
Hey whats up guys.
k so for sure i'll be re-building my GSR motor and tranny
But i was wondering about power, cost and reliability?
obviously the turbo is going to help put down more power but is it more reliable for me to do all motor?

my hp goal is between 325 - 350 to the wheels with a good tune and it will be my daily driver.
will it cost more to do all motor or turbo?
would it be less reliable with the turbo?
what option would best fit my goal?

THANX 4 ALL THE HELP!!! :shock:
 

jznsn2u

Active Member
You kinda made the same thread like...3 times o____o... "my hp goal is between 325 - 350 to the wheels with a good tune and it will be my daily driver." someone said the saaame thing.

You wont see 300 hp all motor unless your hella ballin and have the resources. A stock gsr block can handle up too 300 hp fine according to what i've read. You're going to need to build your bottom block, head and turbo charge your car if you really want to achieve your goal for 325-350. That's the cheapest approach to your goal and your question on reliability - any build can be reliable if you build it right.

My advice to you is research!!!
 
Last edited:

BigMac88

Fat guy in a little 'teg
Two questions for you:

What do you intend to do with the car? Daily-driver, touge, circuit track, drag, etc.

What is your budget?

Your power goal is more easily attained through forced induction. Answer my two questions and do a little research and we will all help you as best we can. :thumbs up
 


96IntegraRS

New Member
QUOTE:
Two questions for you:

What do you intend to do with the car? Daily-driver, touge, circuit track, drag, etc.

What is your budget?

Your power goal is more easily attained through forced induction. Answer my two questions and do a little research and we will all help you as best we can.

1. Daily Driver/ Drag every now and then
2. 10k right now, might have more later.
 


BigMac88

Fat guy in a little 'teg
Ok. Well, for daily driver/drag car with 300+ whp, I'd go with forced induction. The differences in power/how it's used is most noticeable in road racing. There are different driving techniques and different 'mannerisms' the car will have depending on if it's NA or FI. I prefer NA but in your case I'd have to suggest an FI build.

If you're DD/occasional drag a 300+whp turbo build will be a lot more streetable and probably more reliable than a 300+whp NA build. You couldn't even run the NA motor on anything under 100 octane to get near that power goal.

For the FI build you'll need:

- Forged pistons & rods (JE, Carillo, Weisco, Arias, etc)

- Turbo, manifold, oil lines, intercooler, piping, BOV.
- I'd look at turbos like the Garret GT28RS (disco potato) or T3/T4. They have different properties, one will spool faster one has a greater power potential, both will work for your power goal. Look around for some other turbos you'd like as well.
- Get a good manifold, not a knock-off ebay manifold. A bad manifold can give you boost creep or will crack. No bueno.

- A set of FI cams

- A better-flowing intake manifold (Edelbrock :thumbs up)

- AEM EMS - GET A GOOD TUNE! IT'S THE MOST IMPORTANT PART!!!

Just for reference, this is all common knowledge. I suggest you do some research next time. I'm not trying to bash on you, it's just that your question in it's nature is n00b. How FI and performance NA motors function is basic principal, and can all be learned through research. It's one of those instances where if you have to ask the question, you probably can't handle the real-world outcome, a.k.a. 300-350whp. Not trying to bash you and I wish you the best of luck, just giving you something to think about.
 

Samurai_Blue

Yolo Whippin'
I would go with
low compression forged pistons (weisco)
Hondata s300 and a good tune
skunk2 pro1+ cams (proven over itr cams for boost)
and the victor x manifold from edelbrok
 

96IntegraRS

New Member
thanks for all your help and to bigmac88, its all good bro i know i'm a noob as far as motor and shit. i've been doing research like a son of a bitch i just wanted your guys' personal opinions and recommendations.


special thanks 2
bigmac88
&
samurai_blue

just a couple more questions real quick.
what do you recommend on upgrades needed for axle strength and what type of clutch & flywheel set-up should i do?
 

Samurai_Blue

Yolo Whippin'
clutch and flywheel set up is personal preference. If you are running a 3xxwhp turbo car i recomend exedy stage2 or stage3 or the equivelant for act clutches. Clutches are based on torque rating a 200whp all motor car can handle an exedy stage 1 with no problem. you can daily drive a stage2 and stage3 stage 3 is a little wack if you want to parallel park.,...but fly wheel should be between 15-11lbs for daily IMO. 12.5lb from ACT is my persnal favorite but alot of people drive on an 8lb flywheel, again personal preferance.

Axel strength depends on preferance also some people are lazy and use the oem ones. you may want to look at hasport axles or drive shaft shop ones http://www.driveshaftshop.com/ These from drive shaft shop are hit and miss though, When i talked to Edmund and someone else (forgot his name) from Spoon Sports/Opak at the 25hr of thunder hill they were saying the previous axle in the accord euro R lasted 2 years while they used axles that lasted about an hour or two at the race. Up to you if you want to use hasport or the drive shaft shop (they seem to be hit or miss) or Honda
 
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