cheap power upgrades

chronsolo

MAD MAN
hello there in integra land, i just bought a 96 special edition ls, i just got my stereo all hooked up but i want to go just a little faster. what are some affordable performance upgrades that i can do myself? the motor has 120k on it, i just sealed the oil pan back up, along with new ngk's and wires, i don't want to do anything REAL drastic. any advice is helpful, thanks
 

jznsn2u

Active Member
Another way to improve performance is weight reduction. - uninstall the rear seats, rear panels, rear carpet, spare tire n tools, etc. You don't have to spend money to do this although your car would look stripped.
 


j13

Keep It Clean
jznsn2u said:
uninstall the rear seats, rear panels, rear carpet, spare tire n tools, etc. You don't have to spend money to do this although your car would look stripped.
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Is this real advice?

The car would look/feel stupid driving in it(you'll have to see your car). I took out 95% of my interior when I was cleaning it, when I drove around like that, I was hating life. Super cold inside the car in mornings, a lot of road noise ect ect.

Don't be a ricer don't gut your car.
 

mirrorimg

Well-Known Member
Power to weight ratio will make your car faster, by having quicker acceleration. Lighter the car = less the engine has to pull along. I agree its not cool to drive around in a not so functional car.

There really isnt a cheap performance upgrade. The I/H/E will make your car sound faster, and will let it breathe a bit better, but wont make your car noticeably faster. More expensive upgrades are needed if you want to actually make more power.
 

jznsn2u

Active Member
j13 said:
Is this real advice?

The car would look/feel stupid driving in it(you'll have to see your car). I took out 95% of my interior when I was cleaning it, when I drove around like that, I was hating life. Super cold inside the car in mornings, a lot of road noise ect ect.

Don't be a ricer don't gut your car.
Click to expand...
mirrorimg said:
Power to weight ratio will make your car faster, by having quicker acceleration. Lighter the car = less the engine has to pull along. I agree its not cool to drive around in a not so functional car.

There really isnt a cheap performance upgrade. The I/H/E will make your car sound faster, and will let it breathe a bit better, but wont make your car noticeably faster. More expensive upgrades are needed if you want to actually make more power.
Click to expand...
I agree with you guys but when I thought of performance upgrades that's what came to mind as something you could do without spending money. A generic intake would be the cheapest power upgrade.
 

j13

Keep It Clean
mirrorimg said:
Power to weight ratio will make your car faster, by having quicker acceleration. Lighter the car = less the engine has to pull along. I agree its not cool to drive around in a not so functional car.
Click to expand...
Power to weight is very true, and it also depends what he wants to do it to. Like a track car or autocross or something like that would be perfect for a full gut.

But IMO driving around in a gutted car on the streets, just to be a tad faster=fail. And in some stated that's a FAT ticket or worse, you're soppos to have all functioning seats and seat belt in a registered passenger vehicle.
 

j13

Keep It Clean
jznsn2u said:
I agree with you guys but when I thought of performance upgrades that's what came to mind as something you could do without spending money. A generic intake would be the cheapest power upgrade.
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Their is no such thing as a "cheap" power upgrade lol
 

suspendedHatch

Legalize Illegal Aliens
A cheap power upgrade would be bypassing the coolant to the throttle body and IACV. I had another but now I forget.

Everything else is just deep maintenance. Valve adjustment, ignition timing, tighten throttle cable, clean out the throttle body and intake manifold, use Seafoam; on top of the usual stuff.

I personally remove the mud flaps.

If you're going to do weight reduction, remove the bumper supports. Those are there to save the insurance companies money when you crash at very low speeds. They're not effective at moderate to high speeds. There's the metal bracket under the dash, and inside the lower steering column cover. There's the intake manifold brace. Spare tire, jack, and tools if you're never far from home.

On a Civic I would say pull the power steering but I think you'd be miserable if you did that on an Integra.
 

DC_Five_Earl

New Member
mirrorimg said:
Power to weight ratio will make your car faster, by having quicker acceleration. Lighter the car = less the engine has to pull along. I agree its not cool to drive around in a not so functional car.

There really isnt a cheap performance upgrade. The I/H/E will make your car sound faster, and will let it breathe a bit better, but wont make your car noticeably faster. More expensive upgrades are needed if you want to actually make more power.
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X2
OP there's no such thing as a cheap mod, basic bolt-ons will probably give you what's actually rated from the crank to your wheels.

for example you have 140hp to the crank right? Stock your probably making around 130-120ish to the wheels. But once your set with full bolt-ons your probably going to be making close to 140hp to the wheels.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong lol
 

Skidileebodat

New Member
I put a header on my car yesterday and i actually saw a bit of difference in my acceleration, it may be me getting that placebo affect but i think a header would be a good "cheap" upgrade along with your intake.
 

tenshi_R

luxury integra driver
from honda tech
94 GSR B18c1 Engine

Mods:

Hytech Small Tube Replica Header
Injen Cold Air Intake
Skunk2 ProSeries Intake Manifold
JDM ITR Throttle Body
97 ITR Cams
GSR Dual Valve Springs IN & EX (was supposed to be ITR Valve Springs, but found out after I installed them that the guy that sold them to my friend sent the wrong springs).
RS*R ExMag Exhaust 2.36"
HiFlow Race Cat 2.5"
Spoon 2-Layer Head Gasket

Tuned on Crome. It put down 168whp

-----------------------------
another one
Basic setup of the motor is b18c1... stock bore... jdm itr pistons... stock cams stock ecu... str tb, skunk IM.. profab header 181whp and 129 torque
-----------------------

evans tuning
Engine: Bone stock JDM ITR engine swap, JDM 2.5" header, 2.5" exhaust, no cat, short ram intake
191whp/140tq, neptune

--------------------------

Engine: Bone Stock ITR engine, AEBS intake manifold

Mods: JDM ITR 2.5" collector header, 2.5 HKS exhaust, carbon fiber intake, neptune
186whp/136tq, neptune
----------------------
also why tuning is important even with boltons<<<<<>>>>>>
http://forums.evans-tuning.com/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=1695

---------------------------------------
Vehicle: '00 Acura Integra GSR
Motor: USDM B18c1
Internal Modifications: stock
Intake: DIY Icebox, stock TB, Skunk2 v.1 IM
Exhaust: Hytech replica header, 2.5" Carsound cat, SMSP 2.5" exhaust
171hp and 124tq
------------------


cant find any ls motor dynos with boltons
 
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