91 b16a2 turbo w/fuel cut please help

patrick4588

Integra God
hey all I am actually looking at trading my car for this car, it is NOT a 99 Si motor it IS a B16A. so it is an OBD0 and the fuel only cuts out if you are stomping on it, if you half throttle the car you can take it all the way to 8grand like suppose to be able to other than when you get to third gear I believe I am getting the car gonna look to get some DSM 450 injectors and as soon as i get more money I would get rid of that FMU and get a standalone system gonna check the local shops to see what tuning systems are around and what not I know hondata is normally a good way to go but might be able to get an apexi safc for a decent price but gonna look around than get tuned, lol good READ huh?
So should this fix my fuel cut problem? Thanx
you still dont get it. if you are getting on it, boosting 11psi, and the fuel cuts, you are a playing russian roulette everytime. it would be better not to have a rev limiter than to have a fuel cut on a turbo car. also, an safc is a pretty cheap way to tune things. its ok for naturally aspirated cars, but when you are dealing with more complex boost tables, there are better options. look into neptune rtp, hondata s300, ectune, or if you are short on funds, crome pro.
 

patrick4588

Integra God
and another thing, are you sure its a fuel cut? since you can rev higher on part throttle, that leads me to believe the car is just breaking up when you go WOT. either rich or maybe lean. either way its not good. i wouldnt drive it hard until you get proper fuel setup and ecu
 

91b16a2teg

New Member
well actually the ignition is junk the guy took a screwdriver and jammned it in cause he couldnt find his keys so idk if that would have anything to do with it i dont know alot about these cars
 

heykosal

Angkorian
You definitely should'nt buy this car, you should do a LOT of research and figure out what you want.

Do research.
 


91b16a2teg

New Member
i know i wasnt planning on buying it anymore but it would have been a trade for my bike im selling so i was considering it and wanted to find out more about it thanks for all ur help
 

dc2GS-R

Super Moderator
I know hondata is normally a good way to go but might be able to get an apexi safc for a decent price but gonna look around than get tuned
My post from another thread explaining why AFC's suck so bad

dc2GS-R said:
Remember that AFC controllers work by altering sensor signals before they get to the ECU. The primary signal being messed with is the Map Sensor. This is very important on a Speed Density car. The Map Sensor is used by the ECU to guess how much air is going into the car, and therefore how much fuel to supply in order to match airflow. When you "lean" out a car with an AFC, you are simply decreasing the Map Sensor signal - the ECU responds to the decrease in manifold pressure by supplying less fuel. When you "richen" a car with an AFC, you are simply increasing the Map Sensor signal - the ECU responds to the increase in manifold pressure by supplying more fuel.

The change in fueling happens for a reason: if you look at a fuel table, Map Sensor values correspond with columns. When you increase or decrease the signal from the Map Sensor, you are simply making the ECU use a different column than it originally would have used.

But wait, the Map Sensor is used for determining ignition requirements too! When you "lean" out a car with an AFC, you also advanced ignition timing. When you "richen" a car with a AFC, you will have retarded timing. If looking at the trends horizontally (as MAP changes) on an ignition table, and you can clearly see why this happens and to what extent. This helps explain why so many boosted cars running on the "AFC hack" have issues due to excessive ignition advance.

The bottom line: SAFC's and VAFC's suck because you cannot independently adjust fuel and ignition. Any changes to fueling will produce a change in ignition too, and uncontrolled ignition timing is NOT good at all
Trying to lean out the fuel curve necessary to run the run larger injectors with an AFC advances ignition timing and we all know how safe uncontrolled amounts of timing advance can be on a boosted car.

And for the price of buying an AFC and an ignition timing controller, you could have just gotten Hondata in the first place.
 
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Ominous G2

┌∩┐(◣_◢)┌∩┐
Just a heads up, this is not a wideband.


Innovative, PLX, NGK, Autometer, and even AEM have nice widebands.

Here is a nice simple wideband, that will fit in a pillar gauge pod.
 

That_sick_LS

New Member
ok, just drove car again today it is not Fuel Cut it is an ignition cut, I can stomp on it in first and second than in third I can half throttle it and be ok but full throttle in just shut off around 7 grand, anyone know what this might be? so again NO FUEL CUT I take this as good news and thanks for info on the AFC I'll just get a hondata 100, I will probably end up trading my 95 LS for this car for various reasons other than this Ignition cut the car is almost in Mint condition I am gonna get some DSM Injectors probably tomorrow and I'll look around for a fair priced Hondata, btw what is a reasonable price for one>? lol any way thanx for the help
 

Ominous G2

┌∩┐(◣_◢)┌∩┐
The car shutting off at 7k doesnt sound like an ignition cut. Ignition cuts dont kill the car, like a 2 step launch it just holds the engine back. So if it was an ignition cut, the car should have kept running. I think the car is just leaning out way to bad from running 10 psi on 240cc injectors.

I would refrain from beating on a car you know is not tuned and running injectors that are way to small. Get some DSM injectors ASAP.
 

That_sick_LS

New Member
Buddy of mine told me it could possibly be the map sensor where over boosting the map sensor when it hits peak pressure in third gear the ecu goes into limp mode making it so the car is undriveable until shut off and started again, gonna try putting some one way check valves in and turning the boost down until able to get bigger injectors and a stand alone system, any thoughts on that?
 
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