Novice Integra/manual owner; Asking for maintenance advice

soviet snarf

1997 GSR 3d
Hello everyone,
I just purchased my first, 100% own, 5-speed Dark Green 1997 Acura Integra GSR! :D

The car has 180,000 miles on it, and it needs some mechanical work. I was hoping to get some advice about these repairs, in regards to how-to's, tips/tricks, and which parts are the best/cheapest to buy.

For now I'm planning on repairing the car, afterwords leaving it mostly stock, with the exception of a filter and sway bars and some little stuff.

Here is the current repair/problems list:
Needs a new timing belt (the mechanic who last saw the car recommended it)
Needs x2 (upstream/downstream) O2 sensors
Oil leaks (multiple) in the engine bay
Cruise control doesn't work (minor)
Window Switch (drivers) can be replaced (Junkyard diving time?)

Otherwise the car drives well

Thanks everyone, in advance
 

Aussie

Zoom-Zoom
Gates belts are highly recommended.

I think Denso makes the OEM O2 sensors, I would recommend them over Bosch.

Fix the oil leaks or they will make a mess of everything (i hate oil leaks). Your mechanic should be able to handle them while doing the timing belt. Most likely it's the valve cover, vtec solenoid gasket, cam seals, and/or distributor seal. All will be accessible when doing the belt.

Old cruise control systems where shit, try to find a unit at the junkyard if you can.

I would just order a new window switch, also make sure it's the switch and not a bad regulator.

Welcome, congrats on a great car, and post some photos cause everyone will want to see it.
 

OGstackadoIIa

TEAM LlGHTSPEED RACING
Check your PM's. I parted out a car and have a couple parts you need.
 


JustinMcGee1

I like Hondas
good job using rock auto. Heres a 5% off code that expires may 31st. 3015334125669517

Dayco and Gates both make decent belts.

I agree with Dylan, you want to get OEM seals.
 

soviet snarf

1997 GSR 3d
Do you guys mean OEM seals for the timing belt kit, or for the entire engine? Sorry i'm really new to this. I'm glad I have a friend who's my mechanic haha.
 

JustinMcGee1

I like Hondas
You'll have to find where your oil leaks are. Find a service manual online and that will tell you the gaskets and such that will get changed while you are doing your timing belt.
 

cdn_R050

New Member
With that much millage and it being a gsr, I would check to see if its burning oil, sometimes it's not noticeable until you hit high rpms (VTEC) I would also check the clutch and transmission. I would dump the transmission fluid also.

I know everyone swears by OEM fluids and parts etc. And I do too for the most part, I have 20 years experience working on my own Hondas and gm synchromesh, the friction modified kind specifically, humps Honda manual Honda manual transmission any day of the week.

I've tried back to back comparisons on a b16a3, d16z6, b18c5. The c5 transmission was completely rebuilt and I used Honda manual transmission fluid, since the mechanic that rebuilt it was a Honda employee, and that's what he had available.

I rode for 4000 kms with the Honda fluid and changed it for gm synchromesh friction modified, I had to call a few gm dealerships to find the friction modified version, it comes in a white bottle.

Complete difference after swapping fluids, even though rebuilt the Honda transmission felt notchy and the synchromesh is so smooth, even at high rpms.

 
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soviet snarf

1997 GSR 3d
Thanks for the advice about fluids. Today I plan to clean the engine bay, and see what's leaking with my Mechanic.
I will be driving it into traffic for the first time today! *crosses fingers
I'm about to top it off with oil... last time I test drove it we heard a clicking sound and when we got back there was hardly any oil left...
 

Samurai_Blue

Yolo Whippin'
GM syncromesh is meh, amsoil was better than the GM Stuff even though its supposed to be the same. Motul gear 300 is what you want.
 

cdn_R050

New Member
Samurai_Blue said:
GM syncromesh is meh, amsoil was better than the GM Stuff even though its supposed to be the same. Motul gear 300 is what you want.
Click to expand...
Comparing that to friction modified synchromesh? The regular and friction modified are 2 different fluids, most ppl have experience with the regular type because that's what's usually readily available, the friction modified is amazing.

I've been trying different fluids for a long time, and this one head and shoulders above anything I've tried, even regular synchromesh.
 
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