How To tune V-afc2

does anyone know how to tune the v-afc2? does it come with base maps to run for a integra gsr 2000

no base maps. it is just a piggyback system. your car still runs on the factory ecu setting but the vafc wires into your airflow sensor and vtec solenoid allowing you to modifiy them. you modify your fuel curve as a value over or under the stock map to lean it or richen it up. it allows you to tune for full and part throttle situations and the low and high rpm cam lobes as well as the vtec engagement point

I have a k&n short ram intake, comptech cat-back exhaust, what settings do u suggest on the vafc for my little set up

I have a k&n short ram intake, comptech cat-back exhaust, what settings do u suggest on the vafc for my little set up


Please answer my question if you can

if you only have intake and exhaust then the money could be better spent on other things. it won't give you much power with just I & E. I'd get a header first. then maybe cams, IM and VAFC

We butt-tuned my Friends V-afc in his EP3, made in quicker, but killed his mpg lol!

with out new cams you are losing mid range power. take it to a dyno and see for yourself. it may feel quick, but its not. your factory vtec points are there for a reason. without after market cams you are not gaining anything but a headache trying to tune it. sell it and invest in other mods. this is not something you need now.

so i just buy some skunk2 stage 2 cams, new valvetrain, and high comp pistions. cuz i plan on getting 275-300whp
i am also boring out my b18c1 to a 2.0liter

4DoorGSR said:

so i just buy some skunk2 stage 2 cams, new valvetrain, and high comp pistions. cuz i plan on getting 275-300whp
i am also boring out my b18c1 to a 2.0liter

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WHOAA.....Let me just say, you better have a big pocketbook to get 275-300WHP out of a NA engine, trust me i'm shooting for it right now. I just ordered the crower 2.26l stoker kit with almost 13:1cr pistons and am running stage 4 cams with a hondata and I don't even know if I'm going to hit that number, I'm thinking i'll probablly need some ITB's to go along with that. And with all the extra stuff i'm already over 10K. Oh but good luck if you need any help any of us will give any advice we can, I know I learned to love ramen, that was the first think I had to accomplish

4DoorGSR said:

so i just buy some skunk2 stage 2 cams, new valvetrain, and high comp pistions. cuz i plan on getting 275-300whp
i am also boring out my b18c1 to a 2.0liter

Click to expand...

Yeah if you do that a V-afc aint going to cut it, Hondata, Chrome or Uberdata

4DoorGSR said:

cuz i plan on getting 275-300whp
i am also boring out my b18c1 to a 2.0liter

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you will never see those numbers without boost or n20. that is a full blown race motor, with cams that make power way past 11,000rpms. compression over 13.5:1. a bore that is atleast 2.4l on a sleeved block. all this and much more on 100% racing fuel. you may see 250whp with a perfect tune.

even endyn made a crvtec engine that revved past 13,000 rpms it made 275whp then it blew the fuck up on the dyno. it hit that 274whp mark for a brief second.

my boy has b20/vtec and some work, put 235 whp. with just a chipped ecu

4DoorGSR said:

my boy has b20/vtec and some work, put 235 whp. with just a chipped ecu

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ok thats possible, but you are talking 40WHP more, 40 more that is an insane amount of more power for any N/A honda engine. Remember you said you are hopeing for 275-300 :shock: . He put down that 235 on a fully built engine with what 12:1 compression and some skunk2 cams or buddy club cams on 93 octane fuel?

^^^he is right^^^

300 all motor whp is ridiculous. not streetable at all! race gas, very high CR, ridiculous lift and duration cams.....etc. its just not feasible for a streetcar. that's close to what all motor drag cars are running

trying to take out the ecu for the first time is a pain in the ass. i have the plug&nPlay harness for the v-afc2 which should make it a little easier