1991 Transmission removal

NOTE: these are the instructions for removing the automatic transaxle from a 1991 Acura Integra.

All information is based off of Acura's actual recommened procedure.

Later on I'll do one about about rebuilding the transaxle.

Note: disconnecting the battery will reset the computer and you may have to preform a relearn cycle. you may need to get the anti theft codes for the radio before you disconnect the battery.


1: Disconnect Negative and then Positive Battery Cable. then Remove the battery, Air Intake hose, Battery base. Disconnect Starter Wiring, remove starter retaining Bolts and then the Starter itself. Disconnect the transaxle ground strap. remove the speed sensor while leaving the hydrolic hoses attached.

2: Disconnect Lock-Up control solenoid valve connectors. Drain Tranny Fluid. Disconnect and plug Transaxle cooler lines. Remove the center Cross member. Remove the Exhaust header pipe. Turn the ignition switch to release the steering lock. place the car in Neutral.

3: Remove the left and right Axle Shafts. Remove the Intermediate Shaft.remove the engine splash sheilds and right wheelwell splash shields. Remove the right damper bolt, then seperate the damper from the damper fork.

4: Remove right radius Rod. remove front and rear engine Stiffeners. Remove the "Flywheel inspection cover" and shift cable holder. Dissconnect shift cable by removing the cotter pin, control pin, and control lever roller. remove shift cable guide. remove drive plate bolts ONE AT A TIME.

5: Remove bolt from the front engine mount. remove mounting bolts from the rear engine mount bracket. remove the front and rear transaxle housing mounting bolts. losen the differential housing mounting bolts. Attach a hoist to transaxle housing, then hoist the bracket and differential housing-to-engine mounting blot. lift engine slightly to unload mounts.

6: Place a jack under transaxle , and raise the transaxle just enough to take weight of mounts. remove front engine mount. remove thransaxle mount and bracket bolts. pull away from engine until it clears dowell pins and the lower it.

to install pretty much just reverse this process. replace the cotter. and add the ATF(automatic transmission fluid.)


Here or all the torque specs. in FT. Lbs and (#) = N.m

Center Crossmember 33(45)
Drain Plug 30(40)
Drive Plate-to-Crankshaft 55(75)
Exhaust header Pipe 41(55)
Exhaust Pipe Bracket 29(39)
Extension shaft sealing bolt 59(80)
front engine mount bolt 48(65)
Intermediate shaft mount bolt 30(40)
Lower Plate Bolts 29(39)
Rear transaxle Mount Bolt 44(60)
Rear Transaxle Mount Bracket 29(39)
Shift Cable Guide Bolt 16(22)
Starter to housing bolt 33(45)
Top Transaxle Mount Bolt 41(55)
Transaxle housing-to-engine Bolt 44-74(60-100)
Transaxle middle mount-to-engine Bolt 28(38 )

THE FOLLOWING ARE IN "INCH-Lbs" (#) still ='s N.m

Torque Converter Bolt 106(12)
Flywheel Inspection Cover 106(12)
Shift Cable Housing Bolt 89(10)

UPDATE there are six or so bell housing bolts.

the starter is easier to take off with the distributer out.

Break-a-way is your friend.

the oil filter and breather chamber can come out to make it easier

the inside lip of the bell housing is sharp(six stiches, i was setting a tool before we broke the shaft free. buddy turn the bolt... pinned my hand down. he didnt know it and before i told him to stop he through his weight on it. lost feeling in my middle nuckle. cut to the bone was funny as hell to see him kinda freak. also painful since the tranny fluid and grease dried in the wound so they had to scrub it to clean it.... bone, fat, and muscle shouldnt be scrubbed. lol)

aquire an exploded view of all internal parts if youre gonna rebuild it.

NOTE: if a gear is gone the internals somewhere are shot. if its slipping its too late to replace the fluid, keep your car well maintained for you and the next owner(i keep getting screwed over.)