Integra keeps dying help

I have a 96 b18b1, car idles fine after replacing the FTIV. It had a bouncing idle.
Car will die when coming to a stop. Or every time I press the clutch an if it's above 3 k .

By doing research I ended up cleaning and testing the IAC and disconnecting it while car is ruining makes the car die, witch is what is supposed to do. Right? Can't remember.

Anyways the car has
New distributor
New spark plugs, wires cap and rotor
New flue filter
New alternator and I bled the coolant like 20 times to make sure no bubbles are trapped.

NOW I did notice that my screw on the the throttle body that stops the throttle cable is missing. And my map connector wires are fraying at the base of the snap clip.

But it also feels like a vacuum leak bc the problem doesn't happen when I have the brake and clutch pushed in together with fwd inertia. Any help would be appreciated !

Gio


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

damn bro good luck...what i was gonna mention you already have in your post as done....i dont know if mine is still doing it..i havent test drove it since i bled the system

It doesn't happen if your press the brakes? Could be your brake booster. I would fix those frayed wires on the map for sure and also that throttle cable screw too.

i know mine shuts off even w/ just the clutch depressed, no brake pedal pushed....so it aint that

We'll like let's say your coming to a light and you gotta stop quickly both clutch and brake are pushed and my RPMs drop and stay put where they should be 700-900. When he problem happens they dip past 500rpm and sometimes reach 200 or dies and sometimes it catches on it own and shoots back up slowly till 900 rpm. I'm stumped bc it's my daily and my OCD kicks in and I get angry lol just blowing off steam. It's frustrating :/


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Volklord said:

By doing research I ended up cleaning and testing the IAC and disconnecting it while car is ruining makes the car die, witch is what is supposed to do. Right? Can't remember.

Click to expand...

This is the clue right here boys. With the IACV disconnected you must adjust the idle screw so the engine idles around 750 rpm.

^^ thanks man I'll try that tomorrow once I get a new screw


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Muckman said:

This is the clue right here boys. With the IACV disconnected you must adjust the idle screw so the engine idles around 750 rpm.

Click to expand...

ima try this too..thanks Muck

fix the wires, put the screw in. and run a vacuum guage. at idle it should be between 18-21 inhg. more than likely you answered your own question by the wires being frayed and the idle screw. keep us posted.

uso_Dc said:

fix the wires, put the screw in. and run a vacuum guage. at idle it should be between 18-21 inhg. more than likely you answered your own question by the wires being frayed and the idle screw. keep us posted.

Click to expand...

thanks for posting, just got back from the junk yard with a new connector and wired it up. Issue still remains.

i still don't have the scree that fits under the throttle stop so once i find one with the same thread pitch at the hardware store ill try that screw and dial the RPM'S that way.

I don't want to dial in the idle by disconncting the IACV just yet without putting that one screw in..

ill keep ya'll posted

The idle screw is what's going to keep your idle up. When you let the gas go the throttle plate is probably closing all the way when it shouldnt. And the screw is supposed to be set from the factory so that is going to take some time to play with...

Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk

You dont need the throttle stop screw if you have the idle adjustment screw. Please confirm that your throttle body has an idle adjustment screw seen is this picture.



The throttle needs to bypass enough air the sustain engine idle when the throttle is closed. This is done by way of cracking the throttle plate open by the throttle stop screw or finer adjustment is achieved with the idle adjustment screw.

The Idle Air Control Valve supplies ADDITIONAL bypass air above what is needed for minimum idle. Conditions such as additional load from alternator, PS or AC and also cold starts.

So fix your hacked up wires and then set the base idle with the idle screw.

I can confirm that I do have that screw I will adjust base idle tomorrow, and connector is fixed. thanks muckman.


Sent from my iPhone 5s using Tapatalk

I just noticed that my throttle body does not have the charcoal canister spout there's just a hole here. Hmmmm


Sent from my iPhone 5s using Tapatalk

plug it.